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YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Mark Bennett, 1983
Page Views: 1,902
Submitted By: Louis Arevalo on Aug 3, 2003
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The Fortress


Fingers to hands to crimps to tight hands. Small for the most part.


Easy pro all the way up good nuts and cams. One quickdraw for the piton and save a #1 camalot for above the crux. This route seems easier compared to the other 11's in the canyon.

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clipping the pin
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By tenesmus
Jun 6, 2006

Louis is right and that's why its often a good "first .11 trad lead". Lotta climbing packed into that thing.

By Fett
Jun 3, 2010

Is the bolt at the top of the pitch on route or is that for something different? Thats the way I have been doing it. Ferg classic IMO

For something different start in the hand crack on fortress then when close to the pin go right to fire and brimstone and finish on another sweet hand crack. It adds more hand jams with a lot of 5.10 climbing.

By grk10vq
Jul 7, 2010

that bolt is part of john doe 2. it seems a bit out of the way, but the whole upper section is a squeeze, its hard not to bang your elbows on another route.

i've emailed all your friends informing them your prior sends were invalid.

By your mom
From: Reno, NV
Jul 13, 2011

Fun Variation.


By Mark SLC
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 30, 2013

Great route as are several others here, most of which finish on an anchor that could see some updating