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In the off days of spotting German U-Boats I'm sure the soldiers of the WW2 era had plenty of time to do some bouldering of their own. This park encompasses some of Maine's rugged coastline with picturesque views of Portland Headlight and Portland. The bouldering here, like any spot on the Maine coast, is a plethora of opportunites to set new routes or climb old ones. There's a few bolted lines here spotted around the parking lot cliffs just to the side of the lighthouse and the main parking lot. Kind of run out and spotty anchoring, you may need to rap to investigate the quality of the bolts prior to hanging on them. This is right on the ocean so keep in mind the tides and make sure your belayer has a good anchor as well so no one goes for a swim :)
Just google Fort Williams in Cape Elizabeth Maine.. 5 minute walk from the parking lots.
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Blade Runner V3+ 6A+ ME : Fort Williams
start to the right as far as you can go before the drop into the water, sit start & work your way around the arrete along the little roof and around the corner where you pull to a mantle top out..a pumpy route that has an awesome finger jam. The crux lies on the roof as you have to fall into an over head matched crimp...[more] Browse More Classics in ME