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Fort Rosstafarian 
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Living La Vida Loca 

Fort Rosstafarian 

Hueco: V4 Font: 6B

   
Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V6 Font: 7A [details]
FA: Marcos Nunez
Page Views: 1,455
Submitted By: drunkenmaster on Jan 1, 2005

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BETA PHOTO: Main face

Description 

stand start in the center of overhanging highball face or sit start (V6)

Protection 

pads


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The Overhung section of the main rock of Fort Ross...
BETA PHOTO: The Overhung section of the main rock of Fort Ross...
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By Vlad S
Jun 8, 2015
rating: V7 7A+

This may be a V4 for a 7 foot person. However, ratings are based on an average size climber. On this problem no matter where you start the hardest move is the very reachy dyno from the jug in the middle to the obvious edge below the upper rail. This move by itself is probably V6. The other issue is that there is no obvious "stand start". Two tiny crimps can barely be reached by a tall person from folded pads, but you'd be skipping 3 relatively easy moves and still doing all the hard ones. On the other hand, it's hard to imagine starting at the jug half way up the boulder and calling it a stand start. More like a ladder-assisted cheat start. One of the most fun problems in the bay area!
By drunkenmaster
From: santa rosa, cali
Jun 14, 2015

the sand has gone down since back in the day so the stand may be v5ish now when it is low? the sand fluctuates seasonally but overall gets lower and lower decade by decade-ish. my friends and i used to do the dyno move in our street shoes so that is maybe not that bad unless we were a lot stronger than we thought or something broke - maybe v4/5ish. the move is simply good smearing and deadpoint technique with a medium size reach - I'm 5.10 with a +3" ape but my bro who laps it too is 5.8ish. the sit has been called "the best v6 in the world" by world class climbers :)

try the fort ross triple crown where you do all the classics: "living a dream" v6 stand (was v5), "fort rosstafarian" v4 stand (or v5!?) and the "left arete" v4/5 stand all in a row in street shoes or barefoot! that is rated = rad.
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