Does a 20' high boulder with rough starts and highball finishes sound interesting to you? Welcome to the main boulder at Fort Ross. Climbing is either easy (V0 - V1) or HARD (V4 - V9ish). Nothin' in between.
Easy bouldering (on the right side) entails an excellent but challenging start up to a slab that has excellent feet, and commiting hands.
Strangely enough, the same can be said about the harder bouldering! Except that the harder section is entirely overhung (instead of the slab), and contains jugs and not at all jugs on highball solid sandstone over soft sand in the summer.
No access issues.
The Main boulder will see sun from about noon to late afternoon in the summer, but you're right on the beach, so if you overheat, go for a swim in the relatively gentle surf.
All hard stuff on the overhung section is a classic. All easy stuff is fun, but not so good to call a classic.
Approah time: 4 minutes.
From the parking lot, head down the path to the beach. Head a left once you get to the beach, and continue on the sand past the Welcome Wall until you get to the large, prominent boulder on the far end of the sand.
This is the Main Boulder, distinguished by the large sideway half moon shaped seam on the slab side of the rock and the large, yet strangely far apart jugs on the overhung section.
Stand start on overhanging side of the right arete as high up as you can reach on several pads. Lower starts are different problems, but the "normal" stand start at high sand goes at about V7....[more]Browse More Classics in CA