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Cougar Cliffs
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Arachnaphobia S 
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Delusions of Grandeur S 
Eat the French S 
Forsaken S 
Geezer Holocaust S 
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Heaven's a Lie S 
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Sunday Afternoon w/ The Family TR 

Forsaken 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 115'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Marc Hansen
Season: winter
Page Views: 998
Submitted By: Marius vanderMerwe on Jul 1, 2010

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The top section is overhanging but with big holds.

Cougar Cliffs are located in the Red Cliffs Desert Reserve, and managed by Snow Canyon S.P. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The climb starts off on 5.10'ish terrain navigating a shallow roof, enters a crimpy and smooth face section (the crux), and finishes after a brawny and overhanging top section with big holds.

The route can be done as either 1 or 2 pitches. If done in one pitch a 70 m rope is required if the leader is going to be lowered to the ground.

Location 

This is one of two excellent sport routes on the imposing cliff face right below the rapellers favorite anchoring spot (this would be the cliff face closest to the parking area along Hwy 18). From the parking area walk towards the right where there is a faint trail and a class 4 scramble to the bottom of the routes.

Protection 

Just bring your quickdraws (many of them).


Photos of Forsaken Slideshow Add Photo
This picture gives a sense of the scale of the route. The toprope that can be seen to the left of the climber is on a different route (Heaven's a lie, 5.11c).
BETA PHOTO: This picture gives a sense of the scale of the rou...
My favorite route in St. George.
BETA PHOTO: My favorite route in St. George.

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By Sking
Sep 16, 2014

The first bolt is pretty low and when you go to clip the second bolt there is potential to deck. That being said it's like three 5.6 moves to get to the second bolt, so not sketchy at all. I would recommend skipping the first bolt because it doesn't seem like it would do anything anyways. The remainder of the bolt placements are well thought out and protect the multitude of 10- moves. The crux for me was getting onto the face (super fun), after that it was stellar slab climbing. The second pitch rock looked less-than-ideal but turned out to be bomber, just as fun as the first pitch only not as hard, maybe 5.9+, and completely different; it's like the second pitch stole all the buckets from the first pitch. By far my favorite route at the cliffs.