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Cougar Cliffs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arachnaphobia S 
Catatonic S 
Delusions of Grandeur S 
Eat the French S 
Forsaken S 
Geezer Holocaust S 
Going for the Throat S 
Heaven's a Lie S 
Indecent Exposure S 
Pearls Before Swine S 
Petting the Pussycat S 
Pigsty S 
Sunday Afternoon w/ The Family TR 

Forsaken 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 115'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Marc Hansen
Season: winter
Page Views: 1,088
Submitted By: Marius vanderMerwe on Jul 1, 2010

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The top section is overhanging but with big holds.

Cougar Cliffs are located in the Red Cliffs Desert Reserve, and managed by Snow Canyon S.P. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The climb starts off on 5.10'ish terrain navigating a shallow roof, enters a crimpy and smooth face section (the crux), and finishes after a brawny and overhanging top section with big holds.

The route can be done as either 1 or 2 pitches. If done in one pitch a 70 m rope is required if the leader is going to be lowered to the ground.

Location 

This is one of two excellent sport routes on the imposing cliff face right below the rapellers favorite anchoring spot (this would be the cliff face closest to the parking area along Hwy 18). From the parking area walk towards the right where there is a faint trail and a class 4 scramble to the bottom of the routes.

Protection 

Just bring your quickdraws (many of them).


Photos of Forsaken Slideshow Add Photo
This picture gives a sense of the scale of the rou...
BETA PHOTO: This picture gives a sense of the scale of the rou...
My favorite route in St. George.
BETA PHOTO: My favorite route in St. George.

Comments on Forsaken Add Comment
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By Sking
Sep 16, 2014

The first bolt is pretty low and when you go to clip the second bolt there is potential to deck. That being said it's like three 5.6 moves to get to the second bolt, so not sketchy at all. I would recommend skipping the first bolt because it doesn't seem like it would do anything anyways. The remainder of the bolt placements are well thought out and protect the multitude of 10- moves. The crux for me was getting onto the face (super fun), after that it was stellar slab climbing. The second pitch rock looked less-than-ideal but turned out to be bomber, just as fun as the first pitch only not as hard, maybe 5.9+, and completely different; it's like the second pitch stole all the buckets from the first pitch. By far my favorite route at the cliffs.
By Dr. Dan
From: Steamboat Springs, CO
Nov 19, 2014

Here is the skinny as of 11/18/2014. There are 3 routes bolted from the bottom to the mid station and 2 routes to the top.
Routes from right to left:
1) Starts on horizontal bars through overhang to decent 10 moves to very, very thin, shallow pockets (?11d-12). 1st bolt is at 12 feet just over the cave moves. Crux is the thin section and is well bolted, but very challenging (for me). Climbing gets easier after the thin crux. If you want to climb to the top via P2 of the other routes you will need to traverse L about 10-15 feet on easy, but unprotected ground. From there both upper routes are accessible.
2) Forsaken is the middle route on the bottom. Agree that the first bolt is not much help. There are two starts, left easier and right through some 10ish moves on short over hanging section. The crux thin moves are not as hard as the routes on the far right or left. Continues thin, but not as cruxy to the anchors. From here can take either upper line for P2. Have climbed both P2's and like Forsaken better. I think this upper line is a blast. Steep (a little overhanging the whole way) with fun moves and good hands. The rock can still be a little crumbly so be careful, but overall good quality stone. Have not done the top pitch of Forsaken yet.
3) Heaven's a Lie is on far left.