Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Forgotten Wall, Control Tower & Up The Creek Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A River Runs To It S 
Abandonement Issues T 
Aerial Combat S 
Air Break S 
Air Worthy S 
All Washed Up T 
Aretes Syndrome S 
Black Water T 
Blood Book T 
Candy Man S 
Cat On A Hot Thin Roof S 
Collateral Damage S 
Don't Grab Here T 
Eskimo Roll S 
Explorers T 
Finders Keepers S 
Fleuger Chimney T 
Flight Line 1 T 
Flight Line 2 S 
Flight Line 3 T 
Flight Stimulator T 
Forget Me Not T 
Here's my Paddle! S 
Jibber Jabber S 
Losers Weepers S 
Napolean Complex S 
No Tooth Or Consequences S 
Non-nuclear Arms S 
Old and Creeky S 
Omission Statement S 
Parting Shot S 
Polar Bear Club S 
Running With The Bulls S 
Skybox S 
Sundance S 
Sweetie Don't Bite S 
Trailing Edge T 
Tributary T 
Tryptophandemonium S 
Use It Or Lose It S 
Virgin's Airline S 
Watershed S 
Where's My Paddle S 
Wreckless Abandon T 

Forgotten Wall, Control Tower & Up The Creek Wall  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 5,700'
Page Views: 22,085
Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Dec 18, 2007
Forecast:
Wed Thu Fri Sat Sun
Clear
69° | 48°
Clear
74° | 49°
Clear
76° | 49°
Clear
76° | 49°
Clear
72° | 43°
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Know the location? Show us! We need it for cool new features!
Chris Walsh in a sea of granite on Use It or Lose ...

Description 

This wall faces south and can be climbed on the coldest of sunny days. The face climbing is not as crimpy as Windy Point and there are a number of routes that climb through or around roofs.
The Control Tower is at the right end of the wall. It has a 5ft. roof with a crack through it. At least three of the routes involve surmounting roofs. The Up The Creek Wall is 100 yards past the Tower. The areas rock is generally good but it has a bit of fuzz still coming off. You do need to pay attention as there is some stuff around that you want to avoid. If the rock seems bad there is a solid hold to be found somewhere. 40 plus routes from 5.9 to 12-
Many of the routes anchors have leaver biners so all you have to do is clip and lower off. Two routes are 115 feet long and need a 70M rope. Both these routes have an anchor part way up with leaver biners on them so if you have a 60M rope you can still get down. A lot of the routes have leaver biners so you just have to clip in and lower.

Overhead topo for locating routes:
pikaconsulting.com/climbing/Fo... (PDF File)

Getting There 

SQ II Has directions to Kesslers Corner and the Twinkie. The milepost now is 8.6. This is a left hand sweeper that has a slow car lane on the right. Park off the road to the right or a 10th of a mile back at the Thimble Peak Overlook. A trail goes up the left side then hooks back right to the drainage getting you above the falls. If it is cold the rocks near the water can be icy. If it has rained a lot the water can make the approach a bit harder. If the water is barely flowing then hike the main drainage until you are just below the Control Tower then hang a left. If the water is much more than a trickle take the high approach. This route leaves the drainage approach just before you drop down into the wash after traversing the bench you can see from the car. Cairns head up the hill. It is a little steeper than the creek bed but a little shorter. Either way you go will take 20-30 minutes depending on what your conditioning is. If the creek is running getting to the Up The Creek Wall is best done from the base of the Control Tower. Drop down from the base of it maybe fifteen feet. At a belay seat turn left and follow the trail. It goes up and down a bit to avoid the thick stuff but only takes about 3 minutes to reach the cliff.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.6 miles from here

44 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',17],['1 Star',15],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',3],['5.10',22],['5.11',17],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Forgotten Wall, Control Tower & Up The Creek Wall:
Trailing Edge   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 80'   
Air Break   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 80'   
Blood Book   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 60'   
Black Water   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Flight Stimulator   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 80'   
Flight Line 3   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 45'   
Virgin's Airline   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 115'   
Losers Weepers   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 100'   
Finders Keepers   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Candy Man   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 100'   
Sweetie Don't Bite   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 115'   
Aerial Combat   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Sundance   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Cat On A Hot Thin Roof   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 100'   
Tryptophandemonium   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Skybox   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 100'   
Where's My Paddle   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Browse More Classics in Forgotten Wall, Control Tower & Up The Creek Wall

Featured Route For Forgotten Wall, Control Tower & Up The Creek Wall
Erica Bigio cruising the crux.  On a warm day this and the dihedral in the middle of the cliff go into the shade so you can keep climbing when the faces may seem too warm.

Blood Book 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : Forgotten Wall, Control Tow...
One of the best gear climbs in the grade. Good pro all the way to the anchors. Looks harder than it is. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

Photos of Forgotten Wall, Control Tower & Up The Creek Wall Slideshow Add Photo
The Forgotten Wall.  Notice the two right facing corners in the shade.  The big left hand one is Abandonement Issues 5.11 [B,G,C] and the right hand one Blood Book is 5.10 and takes bomber gear.
The Forgotten Wall. Notice the two right facing c...
Forgotten Wall and the Control Tower from the canyon bottom about 5 minutes from the trail up.
BETA PHOTO: Forgotten Wall and the Control Tower from the cany...
A climber on the roof crack at a new area.  The tower is now known as the Control Tower.  More info soon.
A climber on the roof crack at a new area. The to...
Jake on Trailing Edge on the Control Tower.  Steep...
Jake on Trailing Edge on the Control Tower. Steep...
The Control Tower.  Aerial Combat climbs the crack through the roof.
The Control Tower. Aerial Combat climbs the crack...

Comments on Forgotten Wall, Control Tower & Up The Creek Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 27, 2013
By jbak
Dec 19, 2007
Dude, finish your task here...I don't even know the names of the routes I've done. How did you arrive at "Control Tower" ?
By 1Eric Rhicard
Dec 19, 2007
Yo, I'll get to it when I have a bit more spare time. The routes you did were: this one, that one, and the other one. Control Tower was just something that gave us a theme for some names. So now you can try coming up with a name for that thing you did. Glues Control, Glue Me Forecast, Gluem and Doom, Glueteous Maximus, Crash Landing, anything but NE Face. Whatever dude!
By jbak
Dec 19, 2007
ok.......now a topo !
By 1Eric Rhicard
Dec 19, 2007
Stop by the house with a check and you have got it. I have been handing them out like candy, ask Ray or his buddy if you don't see me first. Better yet give me a name for that route of yours and you can have a topo.
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Dec 21, 2007
Hey Eric,

Any estimate of hiking time in?. Normally I'd just go for it and see but my partner needs to leave early for the airport tomorrow so can't do long hikes.

Thanks
By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Havertown, PA
Dec 28, 2007
Awesome job with this area description and the accompanying route descriptions! It got me further psyched for my trip out there in March.
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 20, 2008
this is a sweet area for hard sport!
By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
Jan 27, 2008
Very impressive when coming around the last bend on the hike in... Great find! The hike is hard, but fun and adventurous with some great scenery! I can't wait to sample some of the steeper routes next time!
By "Canada" Eric Ruljancich
From: Tucson, AZ / Vancouver, BC
Jan 28, 2008
I've put together a topo of this excellent area. Hope it helps you find the climbs a bit easier.

pikaconsulting.com/climbing/Fo... (PDF File)
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Jan 28, 2008
Thanks Eric!
By Desicon
Jan 28, 2008
Just found this development report, lol, "Forgotten Wall," well, not really forgotten, R. Flaugher just got too old and busted up to get out here after 1994. I've left some comments on this area under the "Flight Delay" notes. Great job of development, Eric!
By Jimbo
Feb 5, 2008
Ya, nice job Eric. Thank the Gods you run around the mountains and find all these great crags. Your my hero!!!
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Feb 5, 2008
I don't know about Desicon but I meant thanks to Eric R for posting the all-important topo. Another thanks to all the FAs for the only slightly less important task of putting up the routes themselves.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Feb 6, 2008
Nice one Christian. You are getting the hang of this banter thing.
By Jimbo
Feb 15, 2008
Up the Creek Wall is the formation 100 yards up stream from the Control Tower, on the same side of the creek. A slight trail can be found cutting across the hillside just below the start of Air Worthy.
By rudy
From: arlington, va
Jun 10, 2008
where was this place all my life? Keep up the good work Eric and Jimbo. can't wait to check it out.
By Brent Silvester
Dec 16, 2008
Thanks for the development. Just went yesterday and had a blast. Unfortunately we forgot to bring gear, and what a mistake that turned out to be. Watch out for the cat claw acacia if you wander off the trails. Can't wait to get back there.
By Jonas Salk
Apr 15, 2009
is there a current topo available for this area? the link to the topo on this page doesn't seem to work. thanks.-j
By Jimbo
Apr 16, 2009
Just tried Eric's link, works fine.
By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 27, 2013
My 5 minute understanding of 'Up The Creek Wall'. An attempt was made to list the routes from left to right.

Old And Creeky (5.10, BC)
All Washed Up (5.10, BGC)
Polar Bear Club (5.9, BC)
A River Runs To It (5.10c/d, BC)
Eskimo Roll (5.10, BC)
Watershed (5.10, BC)
Black Water (5.10, GC)
Where's My Paddle (5.11c/d, BC)
Here's My Paddle (5.9-, BC)