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Salt Lake Slips
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Forgotten Ambition 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Scott Unice, Julie Gustin 1990
Page Views: 1,670
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Oct 11, 2004
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO: The twin cracks where Forgotten Ambition starts. ...

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Description 

Just left of Italian Arete is a face with a pair of cracks splitting it. Forgotten Ambition climbs this face, continuing upward to a face with 1 bolt and then up to a right-facing fold of rock that doesn't protect too well. A nice long route with some nice sequences, albeit interspersed with too much bad rock, and easy sequences. A nice way to kill time if the Slips are too busy, otherwise don't make a special trip for this route.


Protection 

1 bolt on the route is all the fixed gear. You can utilize anchors for the 2nd pitch of Italian Arete. Small gear protects the inital cracks well, followed by medium to large gear the rest of the way



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By Craig Martin
From: Park City
Aug 25, 2012

gen-eva
53 mins ago
This route is now fully bolted, including 'biner anchors at the top.
Pretty easy for a 5.9, IMHO. Very enjoyable for someone new to leading routes.

You probably climbed this route Maudlin, and yes it is easy for 5.9, probably because it is a 5.7

By Craig Martin
From: Park City
Aug 26, 2012

OK, I haven't been there in a while. Maybe you climbed this route High Fructose Corn Syrup? The description says 8 meters left of Maudlin and 4 meters left of Forgotten Ambition.

By gen-eva
Aug 26, 2012

Ok, it could have been HFCS, I just didn't think we were that far to the left. The description fits pretty well, though. I'll retract my previous comments just to be safe. Thanks for looking out.

By user id
Aug 26, 2012

You probably weren't that far left, just another victim of a trademark squeeze job.