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Bastion Towers
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Forest Lawn T 
Pair a Grins T,S 

Forest Lawn 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: First pitch FA: Mike McEwan and Gary Axen, 1975. Complete ascent: Mike McEwen and Dave Baker, 1976
Season: fall
Page Views: 8,514
Submitted By: brad schierer on Jul 18, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (52)
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Photo taken by the climber who was the cover model...

Closed from March 1 to June 30 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The first pitch is the classic pitch and gets the stars. It is a classic layback crack in a left facing corner. Pumpy and steep for about 45 feet or so, then the angle lessens. Finish at a two bolt belay. There is a thank God rest just when you need it.
The second pitch is a full rope length up a grungy 5.7 crack. It's okay but not up to the quality of the first. A double rope rap from the top of pitch one will get you to the ground if you don't like the looks of pitch 2. The second pitch ends at tied off chickenheads for a belay (hope you brought your shoulder length slings).
The final pitch is best described as low-angle chickenhead hiking.

Descent: Rap by climbing onto the summit block/nob just to you're right as you top out. Once on top, head down the ramp to a set of metolius rap hangers. make a single rope rap down the ramp/nose to a set of rap anchors (chains). Double rope rap from here will just get you down to the start of the climb. (-Randy Baum)

Addendum: I just wanted to add that this past weekend, I did the Pair-a-Grins variation to this route and it is without a doubt a better way to the top than the standard 2nd pitch. It's a little run-out between bolts (thought-provoking but not unsafe) and the exposure isn't for the faint of heart. All I took for this pitch was quickdraws.

Location 

This is at the far left (east) end of the Rockfellow Group as you come in from the east side approach. Look for a nice open book. See route description for descent.

Protection 

Finger size pieces (Metolius tri-cams) and a couple of red camalots for the first pitch. standard rack with a handful of shoulder length slings for the second pitch. In general, Stronghold climbers can never carry enough shoulder length slings (10 is a good number). As many have suggested in the comments, a 60m rope is good to have.


Photos of Forest Lawn Slideshow Add Photo
Forest Lawn
BETA PHOTO: Forest Lawn
wide angle view of the route. <br /> <br />  photo by Marcia
BETA PHOTO: wide angle view of the route. photo by Marcia
getting into the business <br /> <br />  photo by Marcia
getting into the business photo by Marcia
out of business <br /> <br />  photo by Scott
out of business photo by Scott
Squeaky clean
Squeaky clean
Great line!
Great line!
Emily near the start of the fantastic dihedral.
Emily near the start of the fantastic dihedral.
bouldery start. <br /> <br />  photo by Nadia
bouldery start. photo by Nadia

Comments on Forest Lawn Add Comment
Show which comments
By tom selleck
Dec 3, 2006

If doing "pair a grins" finish one 60m rope will get you to the anchors at the top of forest lawn...barely with rope stretch, tie knots in the ends of the rope.

Forest Lawn is a burly 5.9 fer sure. Pair a grins was no cruise at 10c either. Two great pitches however...very memorable.
By brad schierer
May 29, 2007

I didn't use a grey Camalot on the start. Instead I usually step across from the block opposite the wall, and start right in on the business.
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Dec 17, 2007

Descend by rappeling (with 1 60m rope) Pair-a-Grins and p1 of Forest Lawn with 3 rappels off 2bolt anchors (watch the rope ends.. the raps are 28meters). This returns you right to the base. (To get to the top of Pair-a-grins from Forest Lawn p2, climb up 10' of 3rd class to your right to the top of the pinnacle)

I thought the 2nd pitch of Forest Lawn was alright and definitely worth doing if you're not up for Pair-a-Grins.
By David Baltz
From: Albuquerque, New Mexico
Sep 20, 2008

Pair-o-Grins is the much-preferred finish and is highly recommended, but should have an "R" rating (5.9 easing to 5.6) and requires mental preparedness. I found one bolt in the 100 ft above first few protecting the crux section. A 60m rope would be real nice as I had to stretch my 50m a lot to tie off some chickenheads. We did two raps of the east face in fading light--dropping 10 feet off the end of our 50m ropes into the gully at the bottom. Again, 60m ropes would be real nice.
By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Oct 16, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

can also rap by climbing onto the summit block/nob just to you're right as you top out. once on top, head down the ramp to a set of metolius rap hangers. make a single rope rap down the ramp/nose to a set of rap anchors (chains). double rope rap from here will just get you down to the start of the climb.

you can also double rope rap from the metolius hangers to the first belay of forrest lawn. look out for rope snags, as there are quite a few chickenheads, flakes, nobs, and other pesky obstacles.
By Pat Mac
From: Tempe
Jan 6, 2012

Amazing route! Here is a video of my friend climbing it.

By fivefun
Oct 2, 2012

^^^ He is back stepping throughout the entire video!
By Tim Hadfield
From: Steamboat Springs, Co
Dec 22, 2012

Nice video, Pat... thanks for sharing!
Gets me fired up for an upcoming Cochise trip.
By Bruce Hildenbrand
Apr 8, 2013

Don't watch that video if you want to learn proper crack climbing technique. That was a major thrash which would not have been necessary with proper technique.
By Jeffrey Hyman
From: Santa Fe, New Mexico
Feb 24, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Gear: A set of nuts, doubles from 0.3 to 0.5 BD, and singles of 0.75 - 3 BD. Metolious TCU are great too to supplement the BD camalots.