|Type: ||Trad, 3 pitches, 300'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA: ||First pitch FA: Mike McEwan and Gary Axen, 1975. Complete ascent: Mike McEwen and Dave Baker, 1976|
|Page Views: ||8,141|
|Submitted By: ||brad schierer on Jul 18, 2006|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
Photo taken by the climber who was the cover model...
The first pitch is the classic pitch and gets the stars. It is a classic layback crack in a left facing corner. Pumpy and steep for about 45 feet or so, then the angle lessens. Finish at a two bolt belay. There is a thank God rest just when you need it.
The second pitch is a full rope length up a grungy 5.7 crack. It's okay but not up to the quality of the first. A double rope rap from the top of pitch one will get you to the ground if you don't like the looks of pitch 2. The second pitch ends at tied off chickenheads for a belay (hope you brought your shoulder length slings).
The final pitch is best described as low-angle chickenhead hiking.
Descent: Rap by climbing onto the summit block/nob just to you're right as you top out. Once on top, head down the ramp to a set of metolius rap hangers. make a single rope rap down the ramp/nose to a set of rap anchors (chains). Double rope rap from here will just get you down to the start of the climb. (-Randy Baum)
Addendum: I just wanted to add that this past weekend, I did the Pair-a-Grins variation to this route and it is without a doubt a better way to the top than the standard 2nd pitch. It's a little run-out between bolts (thought-provoking but not unsafe) and the exposure isn't for the faint of heart. All I took for this pitch was quickdraws.
This is at the far left (east) end of the Rockfellow Group as you come in from the east side approach. Look for a nice open book. See route description for descent.
Finger size pieces (Metolius tri-cams) and a couple of red camalots for the first pitch. standard rack with a handful of shoulder length slings for the second pitch. In general, Stronghold climbers can never carry enough shoulder length slings (10 is a good number). As many have suggested in the comments, a 60m rope is good to have.
BETA PHOTO: wide angle view of the route.
photo by Marcia
getting into the business
photo by Marcia
out of business
photo by Scott
Emily near the start of the fantastic dihedral. bouldery start.
photo by Nadia
|By tom selleck|
Dec 3, 2006
If doing "pair a grins" finish one 60m rope will get you to the anchors at the top of forest lawn...barely with rope stretch, tie knots in the ends of the rope.
Forest Lawn is a burly 5.9 fer sure. Pair a grins was no cruise at 10c either. Two great pitches however...very memorable.
|By brad schierer|
May 29, 2007
I didn't use a grey Camalot on the start. Instead I usually step across from the block opposite the wall, and start right in on the business.
|By George Perkins|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Dec 17, 2007
Descend by rappeling (with 1 60m rope) Pair-a-Grins and p1 of Forest Lawn with 3 rappels off 2bolt anchors (watch the rope ends.. the raps are 28meters). This returns you right to the base. (To get to the top of Pair-a-grins from Forest Lawn p2, climb up 10' of 3rd class to your right to the top of the pinnacle)
I thought the 2nd pitch of Forest Lawn was alright and definitely worth doing if you're not up for Pair-a-Grins.
|By David Baltz|
From: Albuquerque, New Mexico
Sep 20, 2008
Pair-o-Grins is the much-preferred finish and is highly recommended, but should have an "R" rating (5.9 easing to 5.6) and requires mental preparedness. I found one bolt in the 100 ft above first few protecting the crux section. A 60m rope would be real nice as I had to stretch my 50m a lot to tie off some chickenheads. We did two raps of the east face in fading light--dropping 10 feet off the end of our 50m ropes into the gully at the bottom. Again, 60m ropes would be real nice.
|By randy baum|
From: Minneapolis, MN
Oct 16, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
can also rap by climbing onto the summit block/nob just to you're right as you top out. once on top, head down the ramp to a set of metolius rap hangers. make a single rope rap down the ramp/nose to a set of rap anchors (chains). double rope rap from here will just get you down to the start of the climb.
you can also double rope rap from the metolius hangers to the first belay of forrest lawn. look out for rope snags, as there are quite a few chickenheads, flakes, nobs, and other pesky obstacles.
|By Pat Mac|
Jan 6, 2012
Amazing route! Here is a video of my friend climbing it.
Oct 2, 2012
^^^ He is back stepping throughout the entire video!
|By Tim Hadfield|
From: Steamboat Springs, Co
Dec 22, 2012
Nice video, Pat... thanks for sharing!
Gets me fired up for an upcoming Cochise trip.
|By Bruce Hildenbrand|
Apr 8, 2013
Don't watch that video if you want to learn proper crack climbing technique. That was a major thrash which would not have been necessary with proper technique.
|By Jeffrey Hyman|
Feb 24, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
Gear: A set of nuts, doubles from 0.3 to 0.5 BD, and singles of 0.75 - 3 BD. Metolious TCU are great too to supplement the BD camalots.