Forest Lawn 5.9+
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | First pitch FA: Mike McEwan and Gary Axen, 1975. Complete ascent: Mike McEwen and Dave Baker, 1976 |
| Season: | fall |
| Submitted By: | brad schierer on Jul 18, 2006 |
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Photo taken by the climber who was the cover model...
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Closed from March 1 to June 30 MORE INFO >>>
Effective this date and until further notice, Special Closure Order 05-189, dated March 18, 2002, is hereby amended as follows:
All persons are permitted access into the “Squaretop Area, which includes all existing rock climbing sites and/or domes (i.e. Squaretop and Lower Squaretop), Dragoon Mountains in Township 17 South, Range 23 East, the East ½ of the Northeast ¼ of Section 27 and the Northeast ¼ of the Southeast ¼ of Section 27.
All persons are permitted access into or through Rockfellow Dome Park, Dragoon Mountains (Township 17, Range 23 East, West ½ Section 26) except as follows:
Unless exempt with a permit specifically authorizing the prohibited activity, no persons may be upon any part of Rockfellow Dome Complex and/or Cochise Dome (aka What’s My Line Dome) by rock climbing or any other means of access, annually from March 1st through June 30th; and/or
Unless exempt with a permit specifically authorizing the prohibited activity, no overnight camping is permitted within Rockfellow Dome Park (Township 17, Range 23 East, West ½ Section 26) annually from March 1st through June 30th.
Douglas Ranger District Tel: 520.364.6816.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description The first pitch is the classic pitch and gets the stars. It is a classic layback crack in a left facing corner. Pumpy and steep for about 45 feet or so, then the angle lessens. Finish at a two bolt belay. There is a thank God rest just when you need it.
The second pitch is a full rope length up a grungy 5.7 crack. It's okay but not up to the quality of the first. A double rope rap from the top of pitch one will get you to the ground if you don't like the looks of pitch 2. The second pitch ends at tied off chickenheads for a belay (hope you brought your shoulder length slings).
The final pitch is best described as low-angle chickenhead hiking.
Descent: Rap by climbing onto the summit block/nob just to you're right as you top out. Once on top, head down the ramp to a set of metolius rap hangers. make a single rope rap down the ramp/nose to a set of rap anchors (chains). Double rope rap from here will just get you down to the start of the climb. (-Randy Baum)
Addendum: I just wanted to add that this past weekend, I did the Pair-a-Grins variation to this route and it is without a doubt a better way to the top than the standard 2nd pitch. It's a little run-out between bolts (thought-provoking but not unsafe) and the exposure isn't for the faint of heart. All I took for this pitch was quickdraws.
Location This is at the far left (east) end of the Rockfellow Group as you come in from the east side approach. Look for a nice open book. See route description for descent.
Protection Finger size pieces (Metolius tri-cams) and a couple of red camalots for the first pitch. standard rack with a handful of shoulder length slings for the second pitch. In general, Stronghold climbers can never carry enough shoulder length slings (10 is a good number). As many have suggested in the comments, a 60m rope is good to have.
BETA PHOTO: Forest Lawn
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getting into the business
photo by Marcia
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out of business
photo by Scott
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BETA PHOTO: wide angle view of the route.
photo by Marcia
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bouldery start.
photo by Nadia
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Great line!
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Emily near the start of the fantastic dihedral.
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Squeaky clean
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By tom selleck
Dec 3, 2006
| If doing "pair a grins" finish one 60m rope will get you to the anchors at the top of forest lawn...barely with rope stretch, tie knots in the ends of the rope.
Forest Lawn is a burly 5.9 fer sure. Pair a grins was no cruise at 10c either. Two great pitches however...very memorable. |
By brad schierer
May 29, 2007
| I didn't use a grey Camalot on the start. Instead I usually step across from the block opposite the wall, and start right in on the business. |
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Dec 17, 2007
| Descend by rappeling (with 1 60m rope) Pair-a-Grins and p1 of Forest Lawn with 3 rappels off 2bolt anchors (watch the rope ends.. the raps are 28meters). This returns you right to the base. (To get to the top of Pair-a-grins from Forest Lawn p2, climb up 10' of 3rd class to your right to the top of the pinnacle)
I thought the 2nd pitch of Forest Lawn was alright and definitely worth doing if you're not up for Pair-a-Grins. |
By David Baltz
From: Albuquerque, New Mexico
Sep 20, 2008
| Pair-o-Grins is the much-preferred finish and is highly recommended, but should have an "R" rating (5.9 easing to 5.6) and requires mental preparedness. I found one bolt in the 100 ft above first few protecting the crux section. A 60m rope would be real nice as I had to stretch my 50m a lot to tie off some chickenheads. We did two raps of the east face in fading light--dropping 10 feet off the end of our 50m ropes into the gully at the bottom. Again, 60m ropes would be real nice. |
By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Oct 16, 2008
rating: 5.9+
| can also rap by climbing onto the summit block/nob just to you're right as you top out. once on top, head down the ramp to a set of metolius rap hangers. make a single rope rap down the ramp/nose to a set of rap anchors (chains). double rope rap from here will just get you down to the start of the climb.
you can also double rope rap from the metolius hangers to the first belay of forrest lawn. look out for rope snags, as there are quite a few chickenheads, flakes, nobs, and other pesky obstacles. |
By Pat Mac
From: Tempe
Jan 6, 2012
| Amazing route! Here is a video of my friend climbing it.
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By fivefun
Oct 2, 2012
| ^^^ He is back stepping throughout the entire video! |
By Tim Hadfield
From: Steamboat Springs, Co
Dec 22, 2012
| Nice video, Pat... thanks for sharing!
Gets me fired up for an upcoming Cochise trip. |
By Bruce Hildenbrand
Apr 8, 2013
| Don't watch that video if you want to learn proper crack climbing technique. That was a major thrash which would not have been necessary with proper technique. |
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