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Ellsmere Island
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Baby On Board TR 
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El Smear or Land T 
Foreign Legion T 
Fright Night T 
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Foreign Legion 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Pete Charkin, Alan Roberts, Bruce Howatt and Shane Swain 1985
Page Views: 353
Submitted By: Murf on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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BETA PHOTO: Follow the crack to the top!

Description 

Immediately left of the Houdini Arete/Great Escape is this thin crack. Rated .10d in the Vogel guide, it is easier than it looks. Not worth travelling for, but a worthy tick.


Protection 

Small nuts and cams for the route. Hand and hand+ for the anchor.



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By outdooreric
From: Lyons, CO
Mar 11, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I thought the crux was not at the thin crack at the bottom, but higher up where you can actually get your fingers in. The feet go away and I had to do a balancy sidepull/step across that seemed harder than 10b. Ballnuts or RP's recommended for the 1/4" section of crack about 15-20 feet up.

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Mar 13, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Another route in this region that was unusual for Joshua Tree in that in that it was originally a bit overrated and overstarred at 5.10d with 4 of 5 stars.

By Graham Roff
Apr 3, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Pretty cool climb if you are in the area. Protection is tricky, be sure to bring a set of micro nuts and a cool head. While not 10d as in the original guide, I'd say pretty solid 10c.

By C Miller
Administrator
Apr 3, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

A good climb for the area but it's a bit on the short side. Nothing smaller than a #1 (WC) Rock should be needed.

By Richard Shore
Jan 7, 2013
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

A short but demanding lead. Most work I've done for 30' of climbing in awhile. I'd say 5.10+ is fair for the onsight leader. The upper bit can be done in two different ways - crimp all out, campus-style on the left side of the crack, or delicately walk up the offset edge while grabbing the arÍte out right.