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Forearm injury rehab... Suggestions?
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By Zirkel
From Bishop, CA
Nov 25, 2012
Owens Gorge.  Mt Tom in background.
I have a month old soft tissue injury on the back of my forearm incurred from climbing cold and not properly warmed up. This seems to be a muscle tear and and not tendonitis/osis.

I've been doing half-assed massage, ice, arnica gel, etc. with minimal results. I found temporary pain relief from a single acupuncture session but that treatment is somewhat pricey. Still climbing easy sport routes 1-2 days a week but common sense says this is preventing the injury from healing. I recently started using an ArmAid on the injury site but feel like its just aggravating it rather than promoting healing. It seems like the more effort I put towards rehabbing the more pronounced the injury becomes.

Anyone with experience with this type of injury?


By Aerili
From Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 26, 2012
The West Desert...it's not just for climbing, suck...
Assuming it's a strain, most essentially require complete rest for a period of time (length dependent on grade of severity but minimum usually being 2 weeks). Then you should be doing more aggressive and consistent RICE during this time and avoid other aggravating movements. Most strains will heal with this type of treatment.

It seems unusual to strain a wrist/finger extensor...did you do this crack climbing?

By Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Nov 28, 2012
At the BRC
I did something similar a few years ago. Was pulling hard on a big sloper with my wrist in a very particular extended position when I felt and heard a tearing sound in the back of my forearm (extensor carpi radialis I believe.) Not a happy sound! Even I could sense this was 'not good' and climbed one armed for a couple of weeks. Went to PT where they did ultrasound and electrical stimuation. I felt like the stim helped. Also had some exercises, which I did until I felt better. Will check my files and see if I can find out what they were.
Ice was my friend.
I still get occasional twinges, but had forgotten all about this injury till your post. Am climbing better now than then.


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