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Clark Bar Crack 
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Forearm Frenzy 
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Kilometer Variation 
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Shape Shifter 
Silver Wings 
Sirius 
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Summer 
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TRad Crack 
Wallow In The Hollow  
We Don't Toprope 
Zeitgeist 
Unsorted Routes:

Forearm Frenzy 

5.11b

   
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Type: Trad, 90 feet
Consensus: 5.11b [details]
FA: ?
Submitted By: Echoinfi on Oct 29, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Ladd Raine making the moves off of the crescent mo...

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Description 

More overhanging then it looks!

Start on the biggest wall at the bottom of a right diagonal crack that has huge jugs and handjams, layback your way up the crack to gain the horizontal, once here traverse right 15 ft then find your way up the cruxy part to the top , a real full-value climb! Dont forget your small cams for the crux.


Location 

Obvious line up the biggest wall in the middle of the cliff.


Protection 

Sucks up gear, remember to extend the lower stuff.



Photos of Forearm Frenzy Slideshow Add Photo
Ladd Raine setting the last of the pro before the final moves.

Ladd Raine setting the last of the pro before the ...

Ladd making the 1st moves up the diagonal crack.

Ladd making the 1st moves up the diagonal crack.

Ladd finishing up the hand-traverse.

Ladd finishing up the hand-traverse.

Sam Todzia taking a look at what he is getting himself into.

Sam Todzia taking a look at what he is getting him...

Sam Todzia clipping the crux gear.

Sam Todzia clipping the crux gear.

Nuria Anguita-Bates starting up this classic line.

Nuria Anguita-Bates starting up this classic line.

Nuria making it look easy.

Nuria making it look easy.

Nuria making her way through the crux.

Nuria making her way through the crux.

Jay Peterson on the initial crack

Jay Peterson on the initial crack

Z Wall - Forearm Frenzy, Chatfield Hollow

BETA PHOTO: Z Wall - Forearm Frenzy, Chatfield Hollow

Forearm Frenzy, Chatfield Hollow

BETA PHOTO: Forearm Frenzy, Chatfield Hollow

Forearm Frenzy, Frenzy Direct - Chatfield Hollow

BETA PHOTO: Forearm Frenzy, Frenzy Direct - Chatfield Hollow

Joe from the Access Fund

Joe from the Access Fund


Comments on Forearm Frenzy Add Comment
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By Toby
From: Jackson, WY
Jun 1, 2009

A fun TR variation to this one is straight up the face. The line in the shadow of the tree in this photo, www.mountainproject.com/images/39/32/106283932_large_254dec.>>> A short traverse left to get the block hold was the crux. This start gives the route a more sustained feeling, meeting up in the big horizontal part, before the second crux.

By christopher adams
Feb 25, 2010

Is this not the same climb as Z-crack?

By John Biehn
From: Madison, CT
Jun 15, 2011
rating: 5.11c

I've heard this one get called Z Crack, Zig Zag, and Forearm Frenzy... Once you leave the large horizontal you get into the business and its usually much dirtier.

I've found lots of snake skins in the large horizontal... adds some excitement.

By Fall Guy
Aug 19, 2011

I nominate this route as the best trad line in CT. It would be a classic anywhere in the world.