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Force generated by funkness device
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Apr 22, 2012
So I was cleaning a stopper (BD #4, 4Kn?) and it refused to come out the way I slotted it in. Ultimately I whipped out the hammer and funkness and started whaling on it. With two jerks it came out in the anticipated direction of pull and the stopper has gouges. So experts, what is the typical force generated by these things? The root of my concern is this was a placement I would have set trad climbing and thought "Bomber Duuude!" so I like ot reevaluate my placement strategy if the funkiness proved my stopper sub par. Amazing Larry
Joined Nov 5, 2011
35 points
Apr 22, 2012
About half way up the East Arete on Illumination R...
I just did a lot of guessing at variables and came up with a range of 0.0751kN - 0.10058kN per swing. Gonna depend a lot on how hard you swing, how heavy your arm is, where the balance of the swing arc is exactly... but I don't think even at the highest end of all these, you're gonna bring that number up too much.

So commence doubting


----

Why did you funkness it in the direction of pull, though?
Ben Beckerich
From saint helens, oregon
Joined Jun 24, 2011
266 points
Apr 22, 2012
Hanging out with Karin on the summit of Warlock Ne...
It can be very high - it's somewhat common to break a carabiner when funking pitons. Greg Barnes
Joined Apr 10, 2006
1,511 points
Apr 22, 2012
This post violated Rule #1. It has been removed by Mountain Project.
Leeroy
Joined Feb 4, 2012
3 points
Apr 22, 2012
Elk Range, CO
Leeroy Jenkins wrote:
Yet again the Uber n00b BenB to the rescue with another wrong answer! Maybe sooner or later you'll learn to keep your mouth shut until you've got some actual experience.


He seems to be more well suited to answer the question than you. Struttin around violating Rule #1 = troll. Dont ruin a good thread by being rude this ones actually a bit interesting.
handon broward
From Westminster, CO
Joined Feb 23, 2012
14 points
Administrator
Apr 22, 2012
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after...
This post violated Rule #1. It has been removed by Mountain Project.
Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Joined Jul 30, 2011
997 points
Apr 22, 2012
This post violated Rule #1. It has been removed by Mountain Project.
DexterRutecki
From Cincinnati, Ohio
Joined Mar 23, 2012
3 points
Administrator
Apr 22, 2012
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after...
DexterRutecki wrote:
Im not so sure whats worse, Leroy or you getting your little girl panties in a bunch and typing up that pitiful response. And I am not a physics major so correct me if I am wrong here but .1 kn is roughly 22 pounds right? I feel like I could get much more force from a hammer and funkness than 20 pounds....


K dorseyec. You're the same. I'm not surprised you chimed in. Good job.
Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Joined Jul 30, 2011
997 points
 
Apr 22, 2012
About half way up the East Arete on Illumination R...
Yep- my figures are wrong. S'what happens when you try to do complex thought at 2am. I didn't account for the most important part- deceleration.

You gotta figure out how much stretch you get from the cable and how long it takes for the hammer to go from max velocity to stopped, I won't bother to hazard guesses. Since it's all static, you need to be pretty accurate to get an accurate impact force figure.
Ben Beckerich
From saint helens, oregon
Joined Jun 24, 2011
266 points
Apr 22, 2012
About half way up the East Arete on Illumination R...
Leeroy Jenkins wrote:
Yet again the Uber n00b BenB to the rescue with another wrong answer! Maybe sooner or later you'll learn to keep your mouth shut until you've got some actual experience.


What experience do I lack to press keys on a calculator?
Ben Beckerich
From saint helens, oregon
Joined Jun 24, 2011
266 points
Apr 22, 2012
I funked becuse I thought nut was gona be junk, so funked the junk. Then I thought no one should grab my nut cause ppl get hurt when its junk and no booty was there to swag. So then I thought well lets bust this nut and thats when I realy funked that junk and I busted my nut. I dont think I'm the type with the kung-fu action grip so I asked the experrrrrtttttssssssss.

Edit: I funked in direction of pull to break it.
Amazing Larry
Joined Nov 5, 2011
35 points
Apr 23, 2012
Ben B. wrote:
What experience do I lack to press keys on a calculator?


Apparently you lack some experience in basic physics. Don't let that get in the way of posting your opinion on anything and everything though.
Leeroy
Joined Feb 4, 2012
3 points
Apr 24, 2012
Climber Drawing
So when did climbers get so politically correct that the name became degraded to "funkness" device?
I haven't seen a correct spelling since the eighties.
Tom Hanson
Joined Jan 1, 2001
1,125 points
Apr 24, 2012
Tom Hanson wrote:
So when did climbers get so politically correct that the name became degraded to "funkness" device? I haven't seen a correct spelling since the eighties.



Can you clue us to the former name without undergoing guideline #1 disintegration? :-)
Dave Swink
From Boulder, Co
Joined Jun 14, 2007
43 points
Apr 24, 2012
About half way up the East Arete on Illumination R...
Tom Hanson wrote:
So when did climbers get so politically correct that the name became degraded to "funkness" device? I haven't seen a correct spelling since the eighties.


Racist or misogynistic?
Ben Beckerich
From saint helens, oregon
Joined Jun 24, 2011
266 points
Apr 30, 2012
Climber Drawing
If memory serves, this contraption was devised by some DLFA affiliates turned wall climbers and DLFA does not signify the Devils Lake Funkness Association. Tom Hanson
Joined Jan 1, 2001
1,125 points
 
Jun 21, 2012
Left to right - me, Sam Adams, Thomas Huber, Alex ...
Funkness devices can easily generate forces in excess of 2000 lbs, so be careful!

BD Peckers have a cable rated for a rather miserable thousand pounds or so, so it easy to break them. You should always use a Screamer when using Peckers, too - they don't tell you this.

You have to be really careful when funking out Peckers - take it easy - finesse, not brute strength. Work the whole piton, not just the cable.

Because funkness devices generate such huge forces, you shouldn't use them for testing aid pieces, because you can easily blow out otherwise good placements. A head might hold only 500 lbs or so, plenty good for body weight, but a funkness test would rip that poor little bugger to shreds.

This is why bounce testing is so much better. It is hard to generate more than 800 lbs force in a very aggressive bounce test, which gives you confidence that your piece is good. Whip on a Screamer and it might even hold a fall.

Incidentally, 1 kN is about 220 lbs-force.

Cheers,
Pete
"Pass the Pitons" Pete Zabrok
From Oakville, Ontario
Joined Dec 8, 2007
640 points


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