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Forbidden Peak

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Forbidden Peak  


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Elevation: 8,815'
Page Views: 35,468
Administrators: Peter Franzen, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Mike McL on Jun 3, 2009
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Description 

Forbidden Peak is a beautiful sight to climbers, with 3 perfect ridges converging towards a pointed summit. This is one of the most popular mountains in the entire Cascades, for good reason. The routes are clean, classic, and the rock quality is good by alpine standards. The surrounding area is splendid and the views from the summit are hard to beat.

The Nelson guide states that "there is no easy way off Forbidden Peak; it is one of the most difficult descents in the range." Come prepared, but don't let this deter you. It's not as bad as it sounds, and it's absolutely worth it.

Forbidden Peak is covered in volume II of Beckey's guide. All 3 ridge routes (West, North, and East Direct) are covered in Volume I of Nelson and Potterfield's Selected Climbs in the Cascades.

Getting There 

Driving directions: From Seattle, take I-5 North. Exit in Burlington for WA 20 East, which becomes the North Cascades Highway. Drive about 50 miles east to Marblemount. Make a right in Marblemount onto Cascade River Road. Drive 21.7 miles (according to the guidebook) on Cascade River Road. There's a small pullout on your left directly opposite Johannesburg Mountain. Park here. If you've gone to the end of the road, you've gone too far.

Forbidden Peak is approached via Boston Basin:

The approach starts directly from the parking pullout. After a short while, the trail climbs very steeply uphill and is very eroded. Stay on the trail, crossing several streams. Continue switchbacking uphill until out of the trees. Boston Basin lies at about 5700' . Campsites and a composting toilet (best crap you'll ever take) are located in Boston Basin. Several options for campsites are available.

Climbing Season



Weather station 12.3 miles from here

3 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Forbidden Peak:
West Ridge   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Mod. Snow     Trad, Snow, Alpine, 1500'   
East Ridge Direct   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches   
Browse More Classics in Forbidden Peak

Featured Route For Forbidden Peak
Upper portion of the North Ridge and Forbidden's summit as veiwed from the Col. The Northwest face variation is the prominent snow feature leading up to the ridge.

North Ridge 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Mod. Snow  WA : Northwest Region : ... : Forbidden Peak
The North Ridge route on Forbidden requires a somewhat lengthy but scenic and varied approach with nearly 5000ft of elevation and crosses two of the larger glaciers in the area- the Queen Sabe and the Boston. The ridge itself climbs at a very moderate grade with wonderful position. If your looking for solitude this route is for you- with most parties vying for an ascent of the West Ridge or the East Ridge direct its likely you’ll have this route all to yourselves. All things considered the Nor...[more]   Browse More Classics in WA

Photos of Forbidden Peak Slideshow Add Photo
Boston Glacier on the approach to the North Ridge
Boston Glacier on the approach to the North Ridge
Looking back on the approach to Forbidden Peak.
Looking back on the approach to Forbidden Peak.
Climbing the North Ridge - 1979
Climbing the North Ridge - 1979
Near the top of the N ridge
Near the top of the N ridge
Ascending the West Ridge. Early on in the route.
Ascending the West Ridge. Early on in the route.
Looking down the North Ridge from the summit.
Looking down the North Ridge from the summit.
Almost at the base of the West Ridge Couloir.
Almost at the base of the West Ridge Couloir.
At the moat halfway up the couloir, about to climb the crux of the day.
At the moat halfway up the couloir, about to climb...
West Ridge Couloir in early August '10; starting to get thin.
West Ridge Couloir in early August '10; ...
rapping the ridge
rapping the ridge
after downclimbing some steep grass, rapping to the snow seemed like a good idea
after downclimbing some steep grass, rapping to th...
Last pitch, up to the West Summit.
BETA PHOTO: Last pitch, up to the West Summit.

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