Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Penitente - Entrance Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abrazos y Chingazos 
Alien In My Underpants 
Apocketlips 
Art of Suffering 
BBC? 
Boltergeist 
Bucket Slave 
Camino De La Sonia 
Captain America 
Cassandra 
Color Blind 
Color of Devotion 
Colors Of Emotion 
Dive Right In 
Dos Hombres 
Drill Seeker 
Dynosaur 
Forbidden Fruits 
French Lesson 
Glutton for Punishment 
Hand Jam Crack 
Hareless 
Illegal Alien 
Iron Cross 
Laura 
Loony Toons 
Lovesnake 
Mark's Crack 
May-B-Nueve 
Mission in the Rain 
Mission in the Snow 
Morning Glory 
Mr. Breeze 
Mr. Wind 
Mysterious Redhead 
Nature Of The Beast, The 
No Regret 
OPS 
Persephone 
Prick Pocket 
Que Pasa 
Queso Cabeza 
Quetzalcoatl Comes Through 
Rocket Man 
Sangrador, The 
Serpent, The 
Sitting in Limbo 
Stemoroids 
Tangerine Dream 
That's the Way 
To Err Is Human 
Twist of Fate 
Twist of Feet 
Wages of Sin 
What The Hey 
When the Whip Comes Down 
Whipping Post 
Yah-Ta-Hei 
Unsorted Routes:

Forbidden Fruits 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 2,438
Submitted By: Jared Brown on Jul 20, 2002
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Cruxxin it.

Description 

This route goes up a large orange wall just off the trail about 100 feet past the Colors of Emotion wall. This is the third route to the left, past No Regrets and Whipping Post. Face climb up the face between two cracks. The climbing starts out easy, and steadily gets harder to crux near the top.


Protection 

5 bolts to chains.



Photos of Forbidden Fruits Slideshow Add Photo
Take a bite of "Forbidden Fruit"    You will enjoy it!   Kevin Mclaughlin.
Take a bite of "Forbidden Fruit" You will enjoy...
Comments on Forbidden Fruits Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous Coward
Jan 9, 2005

This route was put up by Paul Lanz sometime in the fall of 1988. Lanz feels that it he should have given it a rating of 11d, and is surprised that it still stands at 12a.

By Mike Anderson
From: Dayton, OH
May 12, 2005

There is no excuse for not rating this 3 stars! There is not a better 12a (or 11d for that matter) in the canyon. It is freaking awesome. I'm not sure about the grade, it's been many years since I climbed it.

By C Miller
Administrator
Jan 25, 2006
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Great climb with thin edging galore.

By Monty
From: Golden, CO
May 29, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Pretty stout crux for 11d, I think 12a is right on. The climb may not be consistent 12 but the crux is definitely a stopper. Great route.

By Roger Rumsey
Jan 30, 2009

I have not been on this route since the mid-to-late '90s, probably about the time I seemed to "peak" in regards to my sport abilities. I never considered myself a solid 5.12 climber (especially on-sight). It took me several runs on it before I got it clean. Therefore, the 12a rating is/was (back then) probably accurate. I do remember being really proud once I got the sequences clean. "Ah, to be young again"!

If I got on it today, who knows how many tendons would pop!

By NEH
May 16, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Great route! A MUST DO for the canyon! In regards to Bill Green's above comment, the last link on the left chain is cracked through, so don't clip it. Pull another semi-hard move and clip the cold shuts instead. No super tweaky holds on this one (as long as you don't use the mono below the 3rd bolt).

By Alvaro Arnal
Administrator
From: Aspen, CO
Nov 4, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Yes, the last quickdraw hangs over a pocket for the crux move. However there's another, better, pocket 3 inches to the left of the pocket that's blocked which is just as easy to reach for in my opinion. I really enjoyed this route, and I think it deserves the 12a rating.