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For Whom the Poodle Tolls
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.3 from 68
votes
Routes in Hemingway Buttress (East Face Right)
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A Farewell to Poodles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Astropoodle T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dangerous Poodle, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Easy As Pi T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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For Whom the Poodle Tolls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fusion Without Integrity T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Head Over Heals T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Head Over Heals Pitch 2 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mind Blender T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mind Meld T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Mind Over Matter T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R |
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Mind Over Splatter T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Old Man and the Poodle, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ravens Do Nasty Things To My Bottom T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Route 182 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Space Walk T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Suspect Rock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Randy Vogel, Darryl Nakahira, Marjorie Shovlin & Maria Cranor, 11/82 |
| Page Views: | 2,433 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Morley on Sep 26, 2003 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Left of Head Over Heals lie two 5.9 "Poodle" routes, A Farewell To Poodles and For Whom The Poodle Tolls. FWTPT is a fun route; a little grainy, but worth doing if in the area. Bartlett gives it a "PG" rating, but I felt it protected fine. At the top, move slightly down and right and rappel with a single rope from an anchor. The rappel line goes down the second pitch of Head Over Heals.
Protection
Standard rack. The anchor can be made using hand-sized cams and/or wrapping a large spike of rock with a cordelette. Once done belaying (or TRing), move slightly down and right to an anchor that is atop P2 of Head Over Heals. Rappel with one rope from the anchor (If you want to TR the second pitch of Head Over Heals [10a], rig the rappel using a cordelette).
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