Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Patio
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Antebellum T,S,TR 
Bell Bottom S 
Bell Bottom Blues S 
Bottom Feeder T,S 
Carrying Futons S 
Clyde's Big Adventure S 
El Patio 
For Whom the Bell Tolls S 
Poolside S 
Underbelly T,S 
War on Peace, The S 

For Whom the Bell Tolls 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Vaino Kodas and Bob D'Antonio
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 463
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Oct 15, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Routes Above The Patio

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A slanting, right-facing corner on the far right side of The Patio.

Protection 

7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor


Comments on For Whom the Bell Tolls Add Comment
Show which comments
By Fred Knapp
Jul 15, 2002

I enjoyed the route, but differ with the grade. In real-life it's 11b. It looks like Sport Park grades are becomming the norm in Boulder Canyon. -Fred Knapp
By Steve Levin
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 16, 2002

Bob, real life is what happens between sessions on climbingboulder.com, or is it the other way around?

And I agree, it's nice to have Fred's input.

One person's 5.9 is another's .10c, so as long as we're all having a good time, who cares?
By Brad Bond
Jul 23, 2002

Be sure to do your yoga beforehand as the wide stemming in the 10+ corner was about enough to pop my stiff legs out of joint. I had to boulder up and down the tricky crux start about 97 times before figuring it out, but I have to agree with Fred: 11b, though really fun climbing all the same.

For those who get offended by overbolting, the right-leaning corner, which looks blank from below, will hold bomber gear placements that could easily eliminate 3 or 4 bolts. Placing the pro would make it more challenging, as the gear might fill some of the fingerlocks, but the gear would be pretty darn good. If the unneeded bolts bother you, "you shoulda done it first" and "go climb somewhere else," etc.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jul 18, 2003

Interesting problem, interesting climbing, solid stone, fun stemming moves on friction pads. Watch your footing on the ledge below the anchor; this would be a nasty place to fall. Bit of a stretch for the last clip. Kudos again to the prolific Bob and Vaino.
By slim
Administrator
Jun 30, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This is another route at the patio that starts out with excellent climbing and protection and then kind of fizzles out. If the anchors were placed at the top of the dihedral, this would probably be a 2 or 3 star route. Unfortunately, you are forced to climb/traverse through munge to get to the anchor on the left hand route. You end up spending more time horsing around on this crap than climbing the good section of the dihedral.