For Real Crack
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Starts on the left hand wall of the crud gully to the right of Surrealistic that splits the lower buttress in two. Start up the face which leads directly into some interesting chimneys. Follow the chimneys until you exit on a sloaping ramp and move out to the left into another gully. Belay here and finish the route with an easy pitch to the top.
From: Oakland CA
Dec 11, 2006
Be advised, I didn't find the belay to be the most solid after that traverse left. Fortunately, it is on a decent sized ledge. Unfortunately, the granite there is decomposing. I think I got a cam and slung flakes, and wedged my ass in good. Which was good, because my follower actually took a fall! Very unexpected, from a solid climber on a 5.7. We finished the route via the trembling traverse onto surrealistic pillar rather than up the decomposing gully.