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 ADVANCED
Grand Canyon - West Wall (W. Face)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
For Paul S 
For Peter T 
Wrath Of St. Valentine, The T 

For Peter 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Vaino Kodas, Herb Laeger, Eve Laeger 10/87
Page Views: 637
Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on Jan 19, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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20 years later, Vaino is still climbing hard! Phot...

Description 

Climb easy face to a horizontal dike. Follow the dike left using heel hooks and hand holds to a strenuous mantle. Continue up past two bolts on thin face to the top.

I believe [the "R" rating] is justified because if you come off while doing the difficult mantle just under the 5th bolt (10 feet directly left of the 4th bolt) you will take a nasty pendulum and the rope may hit a sharp edge on a portion of the discontinuous dike.

Protection 

6 bolts (all 3/8"), pro to 3" for anchors.

All 6 bolts were replaced 2/11/01 by the ASCA.

Location 

Located directly across from the Rubicon Formation.


Photos of For Peter Slideshow Add Photo
Holden on the strenuous traverse
Holden on the strenuous traverse
For Peter, 5,11c
BETA PHOTO: For Peter, 5,11c
"For Peter". Photo by Blitzo.
"For Peter". Photo by Blitzo.

Comments on For Peter Add Comment
Show which comments
By C Miller
Administrator
Apr 4, 2003

This climb was also known as "Crystal City Underground".
By Drewsky
Feb 10, 2008

This climb should not be missed, but beware the fall from the upper face: I think it's possible to land on the dike where it sticks out the most. The dike is also sharp in places.
By Souljah
From: Northern NM
Jan 25, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Watched a climber pitch from the mantle around 89/90. All air with a fair amount of pendulum action before his belayer finally lowered him off.

We went next and I distinctly remember a period of contemplation before initiating the facey exit (as per Drewsky - not a good fall) , but I wouldn't underestimate that mantle either - powerful and teetery as I recall.

Excellent route for a solid leader at the grade.

By john durr
From: Joshua Tree, CA
May 2, 2010

For Peter Herbine, killed by drunk driver on the way to climb at JT on Hwy 395 near Atolia. Laurie Leach and Mike Dorey were both ejected from the VW bus and survived, late 1980's.