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l. Sleepy Hollow
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Footloose 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ivan Rezucha, Don Lauber, Annie O'Neill, 1981
Page Views: 447
Submitted By: Dana Bartlett on Sep 22, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Description 

Climb into a shallow left-facing corner and go over a small roof (crux) to a ledge. Follow the continuation of the crack and then head right to the large, left-facing corner and belay.

The current guide notes that there is a rappel station (bushes, etc) in the large corner at the finish. Take a look at what's there, and if you are feeling really reckless go ahead and use it.


Location 

At the S turn in the carriage road at the end of the Trapps, head up into the woods and locate the Dick's Prick pinnacle. Go right and down the hill about 200 feet or so. There is a large, right-facing corner with a detached block near by. The start is about 20-30 feet left.

Protection 

Standard 'Gunks rack.


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By Optimistic
From: New Paltz
Apr 5, 2010

I thought this was a nice little pitch. Pro is quite good. While not essential, a 3.5 camalot (new 3 and old 4 don't work, a new #4 probably would) was an extra bit of truck-ness below the crux. As noted in main description, traversing over to Tennish Anyone anchor is a great idea. The Tennish Anyone belay tree looks a little tired: I was glad to have a #2 Camalot to back it up so we could TR Tennish Anyone, which is a truly superb little route.
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Apr 11, 2010

Annie and I did Foot Loose and Fancy Free one after the other, but not, I think, the same day, given that Don Lauber was also on the FA of Foot Loose but not of Fancy Free. The next year, and before these two routes were in a guidebook, Hugh Herr did did a 5.11 route at Sky Top called Footloose and Fancy Free. This was apparently very accurately named, because Hugh's artifical foot fell off on one attempt.
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Oct 23, 2012

Crux is right off the ground. Seemed well protected. We did not rap off the bush in the corner. We traversed left to the Tennish Anyone rap. We backed up the tree while toproping Tennish, but, eventually rapped off without a backup. Reckless? I hope not!