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 ADVANCED
Little Eiger
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"Is Our Children Learning?" S 
Abney 74 
Animaniac, The 
Black Haul T,TR 
Black Hole T 
Bonehead S 
Busch Gardens S 
Bush Administration S 
Closet Climber 
Conehead S 
Decider, The S 
Delusions of Grandeur S 
Disembowler, The 
Eiffel Tower S 
Eiger Direct S 
Eiger Sanction S 
Fire Face (Project) 
Fire in the Sky 
First Impressions S 
Footloose S 
Free Up The Weed S 
Green Zone, The S 
Headline T,S 
Herbal Essence S 
Ice Princess, The 
Misunderestimate S 
Naked Hedge, The S 
Natural Selection S 
Nordwand, The S 
Persistent Vegetative State S 
Radometer in the Red Zone S 
Smoke on the Water 
Tierra Del Fuego S 
Too! S 
Trouthead S 
Truly Scrumptious aka The Animal 
Tsunami Of Charisma S 
Unknown TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Footloose 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Richard Wright, 1996
Page Views: 3,436
Submitted By: Jeff Lockyer on Aug 17, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (152)
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Pulling over the bulge (crux).
Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is located to the left of 'First Impressions' and is a great little line. The climbing has great moves, from pulling over that little roof to balancy footwork towards the anchor. Enjoyable the whole way along. Don't go too far in the corner, clip the bolt, and then head over the arete as soon as you can to avoid weird body positions. Great protection on these moves and all others, like all the routes on the Little Eiger.

This route has recently had new anchors added to it, so it is no longer necessary to use the anchors at the top of First Impressions.

2.5 stars for sure, what a beauty....


Protection 

11 bolts - 2 bolt anchor. Now, it has its own anchor.



Photos of Footloose Slideshow Add Photo
Courtney smokes this climb.
Courtney smokes this climb.
Eva edging her way through the lower section.
Eva edging her way through the lower section.
1. Natural Selection, 11a/b. <br />2. The Nordwand, 11b/c. <br />3. Too!, 12a. <br />4. Radometer in the Red Zone, 11b/c. <br />5. Eiger Direct, 11d. <br />6. First Impressions, 9+. <br />7. Footloose, 10a.
BETA PHOTO: 1. Natural Selection, 11a/b.
2. The Nordwand, 11b/...
Gabe leading Footloose...second.
Gabe leading Footloose...second.
Eva on the crux of Footloose.
Eva on the crux of Footloose.
Comments on Footloose Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 14, 2014
By Wendie
Jun 25, 2002

I agree that you need to clip the bolt then work your way over the arete onto the face. Don't get suckered into the corner on the left or you won't be able to get onto the face very easily. Remember that this route shares anchors with "First Impressions" so be aware if you're leading & they're toproping. The last move to the anchor can be thin if you don't find the good holds to the left.

By Doug Redosh
Jun 18, 2003

I TR'ed it after leading First Impressions, but found that one can start coming over the arete to the right, i.e. clip the bolt, but then the feet are better to the left of the arete.

By tobias
From: CO
Jun 28, 2003

There are two rap anchors (four bolts with chains or rings) in the same place for this and "First Impressions", so don't worry if someone's headed up the other route.

By Scott Conner
From: Lyons, CO
May 3, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Maybe it's just too early in the season but this felt like a sandbag... Cool route.

By Kyle Turner
From: Brighton, CO
Jun 4, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Fun route, has some good moves but starts a bit slabby. Agree going left early will make things interesting trying to clip the bolt on the otherside of the arete, makes for an interesting rock over.

By Kevin Neilson
From: Boulder
Sep 11, 2005

On the topo above, the routes are: 7: Footloose (5.10a), 6: First Impressions (5.9), 5: Eiger Direct (5.11d), 4: Radometer in the Red Zone (5.11b/c), 3: Too! (pitch 1: 5.10d), 2: Nordwand (pitch 1: 5.10c), 1: Natural Selection (5.11a/b; long rope required).

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 11, 2005
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

A good pitch, but it felt harder than 10a. I agree with Scott Conner's 10c rating.

By Matt Chan
From: Boulder
Sep 12, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I would have to say that 10c is over doing it. An awkward 10a move back to the right, and that's about it. Grade creep.

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 12, 2005
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Hey Matt, glad you found Footloose to be 10a; you're obviously a better climber than I am. I found it to be harder than Headline and Bush Administration and other Clear Creek 10a's that I've done. Grade creep? No; just a difference of opinion.

By TBlom
Sep 15, 2005

I remember it feeling like 10a, then another time I crossed the diagonalling roof at a different spot and it felt harder. It really depends on where you decide to step over. I think finding little crystals for the right hand helps in groveling over the high foot. Really just 1-2 moves.

By Anonymous Coward
Sep 15, 2005

I'd say easier than Cosmosis (10a) in Boulder Canyon, and easier than C'est La Vie (9+) in Eldo, WAY easier than After 6 (5.7) in Yosemite, and easier than Gorilla's Delight (9) in Boulder Canyon. Yeah, some of these are trad routes, but they're graded lower and seem harder. The moves alone seem harder, and there's more of them. Shouldn't we at least try to have similar grades for the Front Range, instead of having a different set of grades for Clear Creek, Boulder Canyon, Eldorado, Rocky Mtn. etc. I will probably never climb harder than easy 11, but I have to find places with soft 11s to do them! i.e. Cear Creek!

By Nate Oakes
May 15, 2006

First time I led this, I waited a bit before stepping over the arete, and it definitely felt harder than a CC 10a. Next time, I stepped over early and the grade felt a lot more accurate. Fun little crimpy pulls past that arete, kinda balancy.

By Kirk Miller
From: Golden, CO
Oct 1, 2006

I added an anchor to Footloose, so it no longer shares an anchor with First Impresions.

By Ken McVicker
Jul 17, 2007

Anyone know the name of the route to the left of this route. I climbed it but can't find the name. I'll consult a guide book next chance I get.

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 17, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Ken,

The climb left of Footloose is Herbal Essence.

By Jon Zucco
From: Denver, CO
Aug 15, 2008

Wow. Never been so sketched out on a 10a corner pull. This route humbles me.

By Alan Robertson
From: Denver, CO
Jun 27, 2009

Totally agree with Jon's assessment of this route. Headline was a breeze compared to Footloose.

By slim
Administrator
Aug 10, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I've done this route several times now and have never been really able to call it a decent route. Contrived climbing, crappy hardware, clipping crux. Pretty much everything you wouldn't find on a classic route.

By William Thiry
From: Lakewood, CO
Jun 14, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Terrific little route. Can't see why anyone would call it a bomb (commenting on wrong route, perhaps?). The movement up to the crux is sweet 5.7/8 climbing. The 10a/b crux will challenge your grip, balance, and technique all at once - it has humbled many a moderate climber (including myself). Enjoy!