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Footloose 'N' Fancy Free 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Leonard Coyne & Ed Webster, 1977
Page Views: 4,583
Submitted By: Bosier Parsons on Jan 1, 2003

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BETA PHOTO: Footloose 'N' Fancy Free.

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  • Description 

    This route ascends the steepest part of the west face of Kindergarten Rock. Start on a ledge below a steep, green lichenous slab that leads up to a roof and a left-leaning, left-facing dihedral about 50 feet up.

    Climb the slab past 4-5 pins on mostly moderate climbing, but with some fragile edges and flakes. About 5.8 with maybe one move of 5.9. At the roof, get ready for steep, sustained, pumpy climbing. Ascend the 5.10 corner which is well protected and take a rest at its top at an alcove. Pull through the overhang at the top of the alcove onto the vertical face above, and follow it past a few more pins to the anchor on a good ledge. The crux is the move just above the alcove. The climbing above this eases, but it is still challenging due to the pump factor.

    Descent -- It is best to walk off to the south, as there are many very sharp edges on the face at the top of this climb. Top-roping, rappelling, or lowering from the anchor is not recommended. A climber died on this route in '93, due to slicing his rope at the top of the route. This was prior to the direct finish with 2-3 pins above the crux which were added after the accident. It is easy to see how one could be lured left onto unprotected and razor sharp face climbing, but just stick to the line of drilled angles, and you should be fine. This route is one of my favorites at the Garden. Go get it!


    About 14 drilled pins. 2 drilled pin anchor. It accepts some gear, but that is not really needed.


    Approach from the parking lot just west of Montezuma's Tower, or from the Garden's South Parking Lot.

    Photos of Footloose 'N' Fancy Free Slideshow Add Photo
    Falon getting started on Footloose.
    Falon getting started on Footloose.
    Steve at the crux in a snow storm on Footloose!
    Steve at the crux in a snow storm on Footloose!

    Comments on Footloose 'N' Fancy Free Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Cody Cook
    From: Colorado Springs, CO
    Oct 27, 2008
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    Burly, burly, burly. The hardest move may only be .11a, but this is one of those lines that feels way harder than its grade because of the sustained nature. Once you pull the initial roof it is on, and you're fully committed on the lieback until you get into the alcove for a shakeout (that alcove is nasty). I'm completely pumped everytime I reach this point, and the hardest part is still to come above the alcove. I agree with Bosier...very pumpy.

    Great route though...definitely one of my favorites in the Garden.
    By Unassigned User
    Jul 20, 2011

    I found a quick draw at the base of Footloose. If you think it's yours, let me know.
    By S.Stelli
    From: Colorado Springs, CO
    May 10, 2012
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    I found at least three of the pins needed an extended draw and probably would have used four if I had another. Great route! All the hard moves are well protected. The lower slab stuff is VERY delicate... down not out!
    By Clint Hager
    From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
    Mar 18, 2013


    I was wondering, if you can't rap down, then how will you clean your draws off the route? Can you top belay your partner up and he can clean or will that damage your rope too? I really want to give this route a shot, but I don't want to damage my rope.
    By Cody Cook
    From: Colorado Springs, CO
    Mar 19, 2013
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    Clint - just lead it and have the second clean on the way up. You can belay the second from the top, just be smart in how you set up your belay, and pay attention to how your rope might run over edges. I usually extend my belay a bit so as to get below the sharp edges that are at the foot of the belay ledge and pose the most threat, and back this up with one of the bolts at the top of the pitch. This provides for an exciting and exposed belay over the canyon. If you're smart with your belay, your rope will be just fine. Enjoy! This is one of the best routes in town.
    By Clint Hager
    From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
    Apr 1, 2013

    Thanks, Cody! Can't wait to give this a try.
    By Kyle Rodman
    Jun 30, 2013
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    Fantastic climb. Sustained, cool movement, interesting rock, and a really long pitch. Four stars for The Garden for sure. Using double ropes isn't a bad idea if it's at your limit for leading.
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