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 ADVANCED
Maiden Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Fool's Rush T 
Illegitimate, The T 
Iron Maiden T 
Looking Backward T 
Maiden Heaven T 
Maiden Voyage T 
White Maiden's Walkaway T 
Z Crack, The T 
Zeno's Paradox T 
Unsorted Routes:

Fool's Rush 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 750'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Omar Conger, Barbara Lilley, and Don Rappolee, 1959
Page Views: 889
Submitted By: Benjamin Chapman on Sep 30, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Approaching the "Fool's Rush" dihedral f...

Description 

Fool's Rush climbs a series of corners to the right of the Maiden Buttress. Follow the corner system over flakey and blocky rock to an overhang. Pass the overhang on the left and belay below another overhang. Turn the overhang on the right and continue up broken rock to a nice ledge on the right. Move up and left to join White Maiden's Walkaway for the final pitch.

Location 

Fool's Rush follows a corner system on the right side of the White Maiden Buttress.

Protection 

Small nuts and cams to 3 inches. Numerous runners.


Photos of Fool's Rush Slideshow Add Photo
Pass the first large roof on the right, in a chimn...
BETA PHOTO: Pass the first large roof on the right, in a chimn...
Belay station 4 on Fools Rush.
Belay station 4 on Fools Rush.
Looking up from the ledge-y area above the first l...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up from the ledge-y area above the first l...
At the second belay station in the roof on the rig...
BETA PHOTO: At the second belay station in the roof on the rig...
A shot of the finishing dihedral, I stayed left of...
BETA PHOTO: A shot of the finishing dihedral, I stayed left of...
30 feet from the summit. After traversing left on ...
30 feet from the summit. After traversing left on ...

Comments on Fool's Rush Add Comment
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By Tradoholic
May 13, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Both the guide book and the OP description is a bit lacking. My version: Go up the easy gully passing the first large overhang in a notch to the right. Above it is a nice ledge. Continue in the nice right-facing dihedral for a bit and then exit left onto the face, past the next overhang. I think the proper way to finish is to continue in the right facing dihedral but I followed some easier terrain to the left, but right of the White Maiden's Walkway. I will post some pics.

LOTS OF LOOSE BLOCKS IN THE GULLY AND AT THE FIRST BELAY LEDGE!
By Ben Crowell
Oct 25, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Excellent protection on every pitch, mostly small passive pieces. On the first pitch, there were a lot of blocks wedged into the gulley that could have been loose. There was some bushwhacking involved, and we found ourselves in a few awkward belays, including one where we got intimate with a young oak tree. In several cases we were unable to reach a desirable belay with a 60 meter rope. A 70 meter rope would have given us better options.