Fool's Paradise 

Sorry, the description for this route was for the first pitch only. This climb does have a second one, which is worth doing if you're up on DOTM. 2nd pitch embarks upon the final slab which leads directly to the pine tree, sporting 2 bolts and gear for the anchors or a short bushy down climb to the beginning of the pitch.

This is a fun way to get up to Dark of the Moon.

Second pitch off the final ledge is good..though I am sure not climbed much..so expect a little rice.

1st pitch was fun, but the real excitement came from pitch 2, which is the 2nd set of bolts from the west. I believe the 2nd pitch also had three bolts. Set up slings around the tree for the anchor, and continue up to the chains. Also, the rappell off requires 2 60-meter ropes. 2 50 meter ropes are a bit short and require some down-climbing, and there is a knot-grabbing dead tree on this rappell. Watch it.

Steve is right about being a good pitch for a beginning .10 leader. Really fun moves in the middle part of that shallow dihedral. Edges and smearing everywhere.

There are two ways to do this pitch (1st pitch)... One is pulling the roof of the curving dihedral onto another slab just below the big ledge with the tree -- This is done after the 4th bolt. There's a bolt just over the roof. Clip it and head up. The other follows a couple more bolts out right and then meets up by the tree.

Not sure which is the direct and which is the variation..? But both ways are good choices for this pitch. One offers a nice little roof, while the other keeps to the slabbin.

Me thinks the pitch marked as DOTM in the Ruckman's Guide, is really the 2nd pitch of Fool's..

Hi Guys and Gals,
Many years ago, Doug Fuller and I (two climbers of little talent inspired by the late, great Bill Robins) wanted to try our hand at bolting on lead, and drilling by hand. We also wanted to create routes we could do when we were old and decrepit (I'm almost there, now.) The results were Why a Duck and Viaduct (which the guidebook correctly terms, "contrived,") and also Fools Paradise. If the latter seems overbolted, I apologize.
The profusion of bolts reflects our desire to create a safe route, and also my indecision about where the route was going (over the roof vs up the slab.) Each bolt required 20 or so minutes of hand drilling. Once the hole was started, I could stabilize myself with the drill bit serving as a "hold." None of it was rappel bolted, and the climb was near my leading limit.
Pete Lenz

Shiny new 2 bolt anchor with chains found at the base of Fools Paradise on 11/3/10. It is aproximately 15' from the anchor at the top of Western Grebe 2nd pitch. Does anyone know how long it has been there? Is it a replacement of an old bolted anchor?

Probably another convience rap anchor. It used to require 2 ropes to rap from the top of Fools Paradise / Western Grebe. I climbed it late spring and the anchor wasn't there. Not a bad idea as this was the only pitch on those link ups you needed 2 ropes to rap.

Looks like these aren't the only new bolts going in up here. I honestly didn't think this area could be any more overbolted than it already was.

You still need 2 ropes to rap from the top of the 3rd pitch of Western Grebe. This new anchor changes nothing in that regard.

Then WTF? Man this is getting bad.