Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
Here is an offering from a list of possible headpoints I have compiled for Eldorado Canyon proper. The name reflects my profound realization, after an aborted lead attempt, that some of the routes on my "to-do" list should be left for other, more capable climbers.
"Fool's Learn" is an interesting toprope problem which begins on the first few moves of "Ghoul's Turn", under the left edge of the arching roof between Upper Jules Vern and T2 on the Upper Meadow. Climb a small black roof boulder problem, then up and right to shallow scoops and edges in the light red wall leading directly to the extreme left end of the arch. At the arch step right and up to a large break. Now climb directly up the beautiful green wall on tiny edges, a bit lichenous but very good face climbing. This section was led onsight (and without hesitation) by Cameron Tague in May 2000 as the finish to "Weeping Willow".
A toprope problem for now. There is no pro for the crux first 25 feet. Crash pads may help. You can get a poor TCU and a questionable No. 3 Big bro at the stance after the crux. There is no pro for the next 25 feet of 5.10 climbing, but gear as things ease up. There are fixed anchors at the top of the pitch- this is the belay atop Jules Verne P4.