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 ADVANCED
Goldenfingers Wall
Routes Sorted
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Arete Bernadette T,S 
Arete Juliete T,S 
Fool's Gold T 
Garden of Gordon T 
Goldbagger T,S 
Golden Oldie S 
Goldenfingers T,TR 
Grillin' Swillin' & Chillin' TR 
OtherWorld T,TR 
Stone They Rejected S 

Fool's Gold 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ??? Tyler Phillips, Mike Tea
New Route: Yes
Season: Crystals are always in season
Page Views: 895
Submitted By: Tea on Sep 4, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Fools Gold

The Rub 

On the small slab/buttress to the right of The Stone. Work up the easy first half to the crystal studded mini headwall, starting where ever looks good (roof is fun). Get the last good gear up high, and then get to pinching and stemming on cool crystals over the bulge. Clip smartly at the pin and pan more crystals to the top. Exciting! (you can protect the exit).

The Pro 

Gear, 1 bolt, seasonal furgy spider stick

Rap from chains.


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By Ben Folsom
Jul 11, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

Good route, trickier than expected climbing on the little headwall.
By Tea
Jun 16, 2011

Pin was swiped by some nutsack with no class. On the upside the crux is now sporting a nice Petzl long life. Enjoy!
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jun 16, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

Aw man, that pin was half the reason to get on the route...