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This often missed crack climb is actually fairly decent. Although the initial section below is a bit contrived, the upper moves on fairly steep rock make up for it. Enjoyable moves as the crack thins out near the top.
Fools Gold is located 10' right of Fire In The Hole and also signatured by a block 15' up from the start. Tread lightly around this block!
Pro to 1". Small nuts or green Alien helpful in the thin section of the crack. Chained anchors shared with Golden Nugget.
|By Matt N|
From: Santa Barbara, CA
May 6, 2012
Easy, crack protected face/jug climbing. Maybe one optional handjamb thrown in. Small mastercams and nuts were helpful. Saw placements for .75 and 2 camalot also, if needed to sew it up.
Easy way to TR the adjacent 10s.
|By Dave Kos|
Aug 18, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a
The climbing is OK, and this climb would be a good little exercise for a new trad leader since there is plenty of pro and easy stances to place it.
(Be careful about being too confident after leading it though - it's pretty easy for a 5.6)