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 ADVANCED
Conan's Corridor
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Boulder Dice T 
Boulderado (aka California Face) S 
Colorado Crack T 
Fool's Gold T 
Gem T 
Green Hornet TR 
Lichanvura Trivirgata T 
Pictures at an Exhibition T 
Spiderman T 
Tapeworm Traverse T 
True Dice T 
Winter Wine T 

Fool's Gold 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Tom Davis, January 1987
Page Views: 588
Submitted By: Mark J. Nelson on Jan 3, 2003

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The beginning of Fool's Gold. A #3 does fit ...

Description 

Fool's Gold is the first (leftmost) route on the Corridor Face proper. It follows a prominent trough past a single bolt into and into a double crack system.

The cruxes are down low, at ten and twenty feet. The first is pretty much unprotected, but with a reasonably clean fall if you're well spotted. The second is slightly above your first gear.

The double cracks don't take gear the way you might hope, so don't pass up all of the pockets on your way up the trough.

All in all, a committing, relatively sustained, fun route at its grade.


Protection 

Standard rack through #3 Camalot.

Pro is adequate, but not abundant. Passing up any of the good placements will probably set you up for a groundfall.



Photos of Fool's Gold Slideshow Add Photo
You're gonna want a spot at the start.
You're gonna want a spot at the start.
50 points to Gryffindor if your belay takes you off halfway up the double-cracks
50 points to Gryffindor if your belay takes you of...
Comments on Fool's Gold Add Comment
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By Rogers, Graham
Dec 17, 2003

The first crux protects with a #3 Camalot; although not perfect, it seemed sufficient for the short, low-to-the-ground crux. The Camalot didn't get in the way of the move either, like I thought at first glance. Make two moves, then clip the bolt. Doubtful ground-fall potential if your belayer belays OK, and if the gear comes out, it should slow you down at least.

By Donno
From: Newport Beach
Mar 22, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

TR'd this and thought it thin & hard: 5.9. A #1 Camalot will fit in the flaring pocket at the first crux but likely won't hold.

By Aaron S
Feb 25, 2012

The moves on this climb were surprisingly fun and it's not runout. The gear is a little tricky in spots but it protects well. I thought the crux move was pretty tough for 5.8.