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 ADVANCED
Albany Slabs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Fool's For A Day T 
Gemini Dreamin' T 
Reelin' In the Fears T 
Tao of Dow, The T 

Fool's For A Day 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Gerry Lortie and Tim Kemple Jr. ' 95 ?
Page Views: 649
Submitted By: john strand on Jun 24, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Description 

A good antidote to Reelin'. Straight up the main slab past 7 bolts, a bit run to the first. Excellent climbing.

Location 

Dead center on the main slab

Protection 

just bolts, tree rap/belay


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By burlap submariner
Jun 6, 2010

Dont let the protection grade scare you, there ARE multiple cruxes very well protected with very slighly run out easier climbing inbetween solid 3/8" bolts.
By Chris Graham
From: Bartlett, NH
Sep 21, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Did this one today, the thing doesn't let up. I would agree that there are several cruxes, but the one between the 6th and 7th bolts was the hardest. Pretty heady route, but a really great line.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Dec 29, 2011

i gave this on to gerry for hit 30th Bday......Too bad he placed so many bolts
By twellman
Jul 8, 2012
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

John, what is the difference between this and Reeling', in terms of exact line? The new guide says they're basically the same, but Fools is what they named the retro'ed version. If they are indeed mostly the same, perhaps they should be combined into one route, including the history, to avoid confusion.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Jul 9, 2012

Reelin' started up a diagonal seam then left to the pocket and up into hell. i have not done Fool's but i THINK it starts left then joins Reelin'. I KNOW the finish is protected.

i have thought about chopping Fools, but am being talked out of it. The climbing is very good.