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This is another good two-pitch trad route on the left side of Walt's Wall. P1.
P1. Begin in the large cleft that marks the Tourist Trap route (5.4). The initial moves off the ground getting into the crack were a little awkward and felt more difficult than 5.4, but once in the crack, the climbing is solid and the pro is bomber. Continue up the crack to a left-trending ramp. Follow the ramp left and belay beneath a large slab just before the ramp ends.
P2. The second pitch climbs an easy slab past two small headwalls to the summit ridge. Clip another old 1/4" bolt about 3/4 the way up and belay at a pine tree. Descend as for Walt's Wall route.
Standard rack - nothing out of the ordinary.
|By Tyson S Arp|
Aug 26, 2002
Really fun route for a 5.4! Almost more fun than the ever popular Edwards crack. Great climbing with good pro--this is what five-fun is all about.
|By Charles Danforth|
From: L'ville, CO
Nov 11, 2007
For a slightly more aesthetic line, start on the main ledge about 20' to the right of the Tourist Trap cleft. Undercling a left-leaning roof/dihedral and work up and to the left joining the Tourist Trap route after about 20'. Takes gear well, but watch for rope drag later in the pitch.
The first moves in the main crack are pretty committing for a 5.4! Rack gear on the left side of your body and get in there and wiggle. It gets easier fast, but boy those first two moves...
|By Rodger Raubach|
Jun 9, 2013
Rob Kelman recommends bringing along a #4 Camalot for the wide section in his book: Rock Climbing at Vedauwoo, Wyoming.
|By Eben Daggett|
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 6, 2013
The last 30-40 feet of the first pitch is EXCELLENT! Tough work for a 5.4 and requires some creative moves to get out of the crack (especially if this is your first Vedauwoo climb ;-) ). A #4 is nice, and I even felt myself wishing I had a #5 for a spot; however, if you are creative and have long arms, you'll do fine without. I actually ran into Rob Kelman today and had a talk with him. He claims his rating of 5.4, upon further consideration and having climbed it more recently, is very sandbagged. He and his friends thought it was funny that I chose this as my first Voo climb based solely on its 5.4 rating. They had some laughs at my expense when I told them it had me thinking I was not cut out for the Voo. I was surprised that my intended "intro 5.4" kicked my butt. Super nice guy and I had a ton of fun talking to him this morning!