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Mary's Bust - main buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Broadmoor, The 
Brown Palace, The 
Fool Me Twice 
Frisky Lady 
Just in Time 
Lie Detector 
Mary's Jugs 
Mary's Tricks 
Maternal Damnation 
New Direction 
Out Of Time 
Proud Mary 
Stuck In Time 
There's Something About Mary 
Violet Blue 
Wingardium Leviosa 
Unsorted Routes:

Fool Me Twice 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 165'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Bernard Gillett, 2010
New Route: Yes
Season: year round (afternoon in summer)
Page Views: 586
Submitted By: Bernard Gillett on May 30, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: Route C is the line.


Fool Me Twice is an extension to Deceiver that links up to The Brown Palace. I thought it was a very enjoyable pitch.

1. Climb Deceiver (5.10-ish) to its rappel anchors. An easier approach utilizes the first half of the first pitch of The Brown Palace, at which point Deceiver is followed (5.7).

2. Move right from the belay to a shallow, left-facing corner (3 bolts) and then use RPs (and/or an optional cam out right) to protect an easier stretch to a bulging headwall. Pull through the crux bulge protected by small cams and wires (5.11c), and then angle up right along a small, angling corner with tricky climbing (5.11, 4 more bolts -- the last two bolts are shared with The Brown Palace).

Rappel twice from here, or continue to the top of the wall via The Brown Palace.


Deceiver begins near the left side of the main road-facing wall, and Fool Me Twice adds one pitch to that route.


Small cams to #0.75 Camalot, a few small wires to 0.5 inch, RPs, and about one dozen QDs. A couple long slings will be useful to manage rope drag. I doubled up on #0.4 Camalots at the crux moves -- not a bad idea given the slab below.

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