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Kaymoor Slabs
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Fool Effect 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Tom and Sharon Clancey, Bob Cenk, Mark Van Cura 1990
Page Views: 1,620
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Oct 18, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (38)
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Halfway up, shot really puts it in perspective.

Description 

This is a great long sport route, probably one of the longest single pitch sport routes at the New, and it's only 5.9! The lower portion is the crux. Climb the face straight up to reach a short flake system. Follow this to the end and continue over small overhangs to the finish.

Location 

Start in the middle of the Kaymoor Slab.

Protection 

13 bolts. If you really wanted to, you could supplement it with gear, but it's not at all necessary. No anchors at the top since a 70M rope would be needed to reach the ground. Anchors can be found by walking along the cliff top and using one of the other sets of anchors for the other routes here.


Photos of Fool Effect Slideshow Add Photo
Panorama from the top
Panorama from the top
Buddy Price Moving on up Fool Effect 9-2010.
Buddy Price Moving on up Fool Effect 9-2010.
On Fool Effect (photo courtesy Mike Budd)
On Fool Effect (photo courtesy Mike Budd)

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By Jacob Sustrich 1
Mar 15, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Really enjoyed this climb. Great view the entire way up, and was actually a pretty relaxing journey considering it's only 5.9. The first ~10 feet were a bit confusing/hard for me, but the rest was pretty accurate to the grade. You can rap down or set an anchor off the bigger tree up top.

Highly recommend topping out and hanging for a bit if you have the time - the view is incredible. Take a walk along the trails to the top of Idol Point for an even better one.
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