Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Table Scraps Pinnacle
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aperitif S 
Cayucos S 
Food Baby S 
Hobolicous S 
Jesus Christ Superbolter S 
Monster Quest S 
Oaksterdam S 
Snaggletooth S 
Soul Sister Thunder S 
Table Scraps S 
Tuko Pamoja S 
Wine Style S 

Food Baby 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 946
Submitted By: Rough on Sep 13, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: The climb follows the pink rope - Jen McAllister l...

Description 

Start on the junky ramp, traverse right for a bolt then straight up the water shoot. Huge holds, fun moves. Should clean up nicely to be a good "1st time lead".


Location 

Rightmost route on the main face.


Protection 

5 bolts + anchor



Photos of Food Baby Slideshow Add Photo
Another first lead on Food Baby - it looks   steeper from this perspective
Another first lead on Food Baby - it looks steep...
Comments on Food Baby Add Comment
Show which comments
By Aron Quiter
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Sep 14, 2009

When exactly do you think you got a first ascent on this?

By Rough
Sep 15, 2009

About 3 hours after I bolted the anchors in, lowered down the face clearing off a ton of loose rock, TR'ing it to mark bolt placements. Rapping back down to bolt the lead bolts, pulling the rope and then leading it for the 1st time. That's how sport climbing FA's are done :)

By Aron Quiter
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Sep 15, 2009

I've got a few friends that solo'd that route 5 years ago... and they thought they weren't the first to climb it.

By Rough
Sep 15, 2009

Oh, I wouldn't be surprised at all to hear someone had climbed it before, as it is in a relatively obvious and short approach area. There are some other bolted anchors on the formation as well though there weren't any over either Food Baby or Soul Sister Thunder. I can say for sure that I was the 1st person to actually clean the route of loose rock as there was a ton of it.

I am sure Native Americans and Miners free solo'd all over St Helena before "we" modern rock climbers arrived. Doesn't mean it can't be developed in a more modern capacity, thus giving NorCal sport climbers another area to be able to explore. Give it a run the next time your out there, it's definitely a fun and easy route!

By Floyd Hayes
Mar 15, 2010
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a

Very crumbly and very easy, although okay for beginning climbers learning to lead.

By Patrick Sanan
From: Pasadena, CA
Nov 27, 2011
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III VD 3a

Very easy, but my partner did her first outdoor lead here to practice! I solo'd up afterwards to clean it. All low angle with abundant holds. Loose like the rest of the crag.

By Phil McAllister
Jan 15, 2012

This is a great climb for a first lead...all the bolts are easy to clip . It wanders just enough to teach a first timer that they need to watch the rope around their legs. Easy enough to learn the techniques. The kids and first time climbers with us enjoyed it too.

By Rough
Jan 16, 2012

Phil, That is good to hear and was always the intention of the route. I literally bolted it for my kids to have fun on, and they did. Sure it is a little more grungy being the lowest angle of all of the routes, but for a 5.5 I thought, and still do think, that it was fun.