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Aaron Parlier working this line at dusk after firs...
This line is a MUST DO if you have the pads to protect it and the commitment to finish the problem.
Find "A Boy Named Sue" and walk right for about 12ft to the wide/scooped/shallow dihedral in the highball wall. Look up the face to the high overhang for the small "notch" in-cut at about 18-20ft and this is where you roll over.
Stand start low on the face (or sit start for posterity, but it adds no grade) and climb direct past pleasant rails and not-quite-jug ledges. Reach the huge scoop/sidepull and lean over to grasp the lofty jug notch. Pull over the boulder's precipice, back and left, to gain the good holds over the boulders airy edge and slab up easily to better terrain for a walk over finish.
PADS AND SPOTTERS. AND MORE PADS. and another spotter.
By Martin Edwards
From: Richmond, VA
Apr 8, 2013
rating: V3 6A PG13
Definitely one of the most fun problems I've done in a while. Fun moves and committing, but never desperate feeling. Aaron's definitely right about pads and spotters. The fall is safe with multiple spotters and multiple pads. Without, it'd be pretty sketch.