Repeating what Lukic said, THANKS to whoever cleaned the line. On lead, this line may feel a little stiff for the grade at first, but tames down with a little work. Reminiscent of ZOOM, with a strenuous start and fun knobs higher up. Unlike ZOOM, just about every inch of the climb is protectable.
It isn't obvious at first when it's best to kick out to the tips-crack, but don't continue up the wider, easier climbing once the thin crack becomes an option. Get out there and squish your fingertips into the crack and smear the knobs.
By geoff georges From: Seattle, Wa. Nov 6, 2013 rating: 5.10c6b20VII20E2 5b
I don't think anyone climbed this for maybe 10 years. Derek Pearson remembers climbing it maybe 10 years ago. I was using the anchor while pulling bushes out of the corner for PBR, and would get sidetracked by the upper crack on Folsom. I pulled Salal, ferns and other bushes down to the big ledge and then John Tetzlaff scrubbed the lower portion. The easier crack on the right side of the shield is pretty fun too, also cleaned that out. The anchor is 3/8" rusty bolts, seem pretty solid, but need to be upgraded to SS.
In my opinion the crux is the crazy layback over the lower bulge, committing and burly.