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Folsom Blues 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 305
Submitted By: Jon Nelson on May 27, 2013
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Description 

A slightly lower angle buttress just right of PBR. Follow layback edges to a thin crack above an overlap. Climb the thin crack (crux) to a face crack above (10a).


Protection 

Full range of sizes.



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By Jessica T
From: seattle, wa
Jul 28, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Awesome route. Gear to 1.5". Small gear protects upper crack. 2013 route is clean.

By lukic
Aug 2, 2013

Many thanks to whomever cleaned this route. Awesome.

By Douglas T
Aug 24, 2013

Repeating what Lukic said, THANKS to whoever cleaned the line. On lead, this line may feel a little stiff for the grade at first, but tames down with a little work. Reminiscent of ZOOM, with a strenuous start and fun knobs higher up. Unlike ZOOM, just about every inch of the climb is protectable.

It isn't obvious at first when it's best to kick out to the tips-crack, but don't continue up the wider, easier climbing once the thin crack becomes an option. Get out there and squish your fingertips into the crack and smear the knobs.

By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Nov 6, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

I don't think anyone climbed this for maybe 10 years. Derek Pearson remembers climbing it maybe 10 years ago. I was using the anchor while pulling bushes out of the corner for PBR, and would get sidetracked by the upper crack on Folsom. I pulled Salal, ferns and other bushes down to the big ledge and then John Tetzlaff scrubbed the lower portion. The easier crack on the right side of the shield is pretty fun too, also cleaned that out.
The anchor is 3/8" rusty bolts, seem pretty solid, but need to be upgraded to SS.

In my opinion the crux is the crazy layback over the lower bulge, committing and burly.

By Douglas T
Nov 6, 2013

Yeah, a bit self indulgent posting videos of myself. Oh well. Get out and climb it.

Belayer - Dave Repnick
Camera - John Fisk

By Jon Nelson
Administrator
Nov 6, 2013

I like the video. Great climbing and camerawork.

The upper finger crack looks really nice. Makes me want to get up there.

Please get a video of Keith's Crack -- I want to go do that one too (but might need some beta)!