Focus  5.11c/d R

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 95 feet Consensus:  5.11c/d [details] FA:  Doug Reed Season:  spring, summer, fall Submitted By:  gneiss pirate on Oct 27, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Mary at the technical arete start

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2013 Closures MORE INFO >>> Big Lost Cove Cliffs are closed to climbing due to the local falcon population This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This mega-classic is another Doug Reed ground-up testpiece.

Climb amazing and crimpy face past 3 bolts and a gear placement to an intermediate anchor and lower off. 5.11 a/b.

Or, continue up and right for the technical and well protected crux move. Move slightly right then fire straight up (5.9 R) to the top. Belay off a very healthy juniper tree.

Location 

Located behind the Test Pilots Buttress, on the opposite wall, in the shady gulley. It gets late afternoon sun.

There are two lines here. Focus starts right of the tree.

Protection 

4 bolts, small to medium camalots up to gold. Extra slings to rig an anchor off a bomber old Juniper tree.