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 ADVANCED
Test Pilots Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.8 Crack T 
Backdoor Man T,S 
Crimp and the Crush, The T,S 
Flakes of Bake T 
Flakes of Wrath (aka Arch Rival) T,S 
Focus T,S 
Gimme three steps... T,S 
Kennedy Space Port T 
Kosmonauts T,S 
Rocket Science T 
Space Monkey T,S 
Test Pilots S 
Weight and Balance Check T,S 

Focus 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Doug Reed
Season: spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 1,028
Submitted By: gneiss pirate on Oct 27, 2009

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Mary at the technical arete start

Description 

This mega-classic is another Doug Reed ground-up testpiece.

Climb amazing and crimpy face past 3 bolts and a gear placement to an intermediate anchor and lower off. 5.11 a/b.

Or, continue up and right for the technical and well protected crux move. Move slightly right then fire straight up (5.9 R) to the top. Belay off a very healthy juniper tree.

Location 

Located behind the Test Pilots Buttress, on the opposite wall, in the shady gulley. It gets late afternoon sun.

There are two lines here. Focus starts right of the tree.

Protection 

4 bolts, small to medium camalots up to gold. Extra slings to rig an anchor off a bomber old Juniper tree.


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