|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 35'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]|
|FA:||Ron Anderson, et al., March 1979|
|Submitted By:||Colonel Mustard on Sep 24, 2012|
|Comments on FM a.k.a. F*%K Me||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Reno, NV
Jan 23, 2014
|I always wondered who did the FA on this one. I led it in the early 2000's and came to the flake above the flaring wide hands only to discover some rotten webbing. I replaced it and rapped off. Never saw any bolted anchors. Maybe they were placed after 2001?|
By Colonel Mustard
Jan 26, 2014
|Yup, Ron Anderson claims 'er. Rated it 5.11c instead of what I thought was 5.10c? Dunno who placed the anchors or when.|
By Colonel Mustard
Feb 14, 2014
My apologies, you rated it the mysterious grade of onsight 5.11. Jackson is right though, this is in no way part of the 5.11 family. I onsighted this while shit faced. Then I top roped it clean in running shoes right after. Pretty sure that wouldn't have been the case on anything close to the grade you claim.
As a head's up, people nowadays usually rate something "5.11" if it is in the solid, harder end of the range. On this site, for instance, "5.11" is between 5.11b and 5.11c when rating a climb. Something to think about when trying to talk climbing in a way others will understand.
Your comments from Supertopo on the FA, for a historical perspective: "this is number 20, in the central upstream crag mentioned in the new North Tahoe Guidebook by John Jackson. At the time i was talking with John about the upcoming guide, i didnt remember finishing it as this was the first attempt in winter of 79. Having talked with a buddy the other day showing him the guide he did indeed remind me that we went back and settled the score. We rated it 5.11, possibly due to only having 1 #4 friend that never "looked good". What can i say,, our helitack pilot KahnHo, had given us some actual THAI-stick..Memories were uhhhhh cloudy back then...
small corner to three foot roof, into flaring OW then finally some deeps hands 5.11- if you will March 1979. He also reminded me we called it "f*ck me"...
edit: guide book rates it 5.10 hrmfff..;-) if you onsight it,, 11 is fare..if you do it in EBs one #4 friend and some large hexes ill buy ya a beer."
Edit: 5.4, Rong? Geeze, have a hissy fit why dontcha?
Edit x3: All this time later, Ron Anderson erased his post I was responding to in this. I don't expect too much honor from that one.
By Adam Burch
Oct 15, 2014
|This looks like a fun climb...lulzy!|