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Fly'n The Spinnaker
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British PG13
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Routes in Lost World at Jacks Canyon
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[Redacted] S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Blood Chemestry Adjustment S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bobcat Roof S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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First Hit S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Fly'n The Spinnaker S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Gettin’ My Fix S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Nitras Oxide 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Papa Don't Take No Meds S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wake and Bake S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Wine Enema S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Chris Thornley |
| Page Views: | 894 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Hendrixson on May 24, 2011 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
While the climbing was enjoyable, especially around the third bolt, the rock quality and bolting makes this one worthy of a 'bomb'.
Immediately after clipping the first bolt I pulled two fist-sized chunks off the wall. Fortunately I had the foresight to not use either of these for the clip. This I can overlook.
After the broken band one is forced to climb above a ledge on abysmal rock. The bolt placement is such that should the climber fall due to poor judgement or a hold breaking he will hit the deck.
Lastly pulling the rope dislodged a massive stone that could have seriously injured anyone standing below. My belayer and I were lucky to have not been hit.
In my opinion this route should undergo further cleaning and the bolting should be reconsidered. I am open to other opinions.
Immediately after clipping the first bolt I pulled two fist-sized chunks off the wall. Fortunately I had the foresight to not use either of these for the clip. This I can overlook.
After the broken band one is forced to climb above a ledge on abysmal rock. The bolt placement is such that should the climber fall due to poor judgement or a hold breaking he will hit the deck.
Lastly pulling the rope dislodged a massive stone that could have seriously injured anyone standing below. My belayer and I were lucky to have not been hit.
In my opinion this route should undergo further cleaning and the bolting should be reconsidered. I am open to other opinions.
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