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Beacon Rock
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3rd Rail, The 
Bears in Heat 
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Dorian's Dilemma 
Fear of Flying 
Flying Dutchman 
Flying Swallow 
Free for All 
Free For All, Direct 
Free for Some 
Fresh Squeeze 
Gitmo Love Machine 
Head Case 
Jill's Thrill 
Link-up: Free for All/Dod's Jam/Dastardly Crack 
Little Wing 
Lost Warriors 
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Old Warriors Never Die 
Rise Up 
Siege Tactics 
Sky Fishermen (free variation of Grunge Book) 
South East Corner 
Stone Rodeo 
Wild Turkeys 
Winter Delight 
Young Warriors 

Flying Swallow 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b PG13

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Jeff Thomas, Del Young (1976)
Page Views: 147
Submitted By: the professor on Jun 12, 2013
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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


Many of the 1980s Beacon Rock climbers viewed Flying Swallow as the highest quality climb on the crag (yes, better than Dod's Jam + Dastardly Crack, better than Blownout). The old Jeff Thomas guidebook mentioned a runout, but this probably referred to the 5.4 ledge traverse prior to gaining the Flying Swallow dihedral.

P1: climb any of Local Access Only, Reasonable Richard (best choice), or Black Maria. Continue right along an obvious ledge and belay at the base of the Flying Swallow dihedral (5.9, 100 feet).

P2: Stem the dihedral (crux) up clean rock with bits of red lichen, past a bolt to a ledge (5.10d, 75 feet).

P3: A remarkably clean and beautiful dihedral starts with fingers and widens to hands. Belay at the obvious ledge. (5.10b, 60 feet).

P4: A short dihedral with hand crack ends on the far left edge of Grassy Ledges (5.10a, 40 feet).

There is a variation to P3: another less clean dihedral just to the right. Although not as aesthetic as the standard P3, it's worth top-roping at 5.10b/c.


On the SE Face somewhat right of Free For All. Consult Tim Olson's guidebook for details. P3 of Flying Swallow is immediately right of P2 on Flight Time.


Take the usual Beacon Rock rack, including some RPs for the start of P2 (crux). There is a 12 foot runout past the bolt on P2, but the stemming is easier here.

Each pitch has fixed anchors (with possibly ancient webbing) and the route can be rappelled.

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