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Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)
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Anchovy Caper, The 
Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication 
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Flying Squirrel 
Green Mile 
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Men In White Suits 
Metamorphosis 
Mister Meaner 
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White Buttress, The 

Flying Squirrel 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Chris Smith
Page Views: 1,423
Submitted By: Jake D. on Apr 26, 2010
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Description 

Climb above Anchovy Caper anchor to belay ledge. Start 10 feet right of belay anchor. climb up to cave/alcove to a bolt. Grab some holds and swing over to the arete. Shares an anchor with Mister Meaner.


Location 

2nd route on the belay ledge above anchovy caper.


Protection 

8 bolts to bolted anchor



Photos of Flying Squirrel Slideshow Add Photo
After climbing the meat of Flying Squirrel, you arrive at great rock featuring giant smooth horns, chicken heads, and rounded jugs.  Jared enjoyed it enough that he wanted to belay from above to better enjoy the sun :)
After climbing the meat of Flying Squirrel, you ar...
the fun after the crux
the fun after the crux
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By Jake D.
From: Northeast
Apr 26, 2010

TR'd this yesterday after leading Mister Meaner. Such a fun route, i gotta get back up there and lead it. perfect route name.

By S. Neoh
Jul 3, 2010

Does one need to use the manky/green rail/heuco to climb up to the 1st glue-in? And, boy, there are some nasty looking cobwebs high up on the route. So I decided not to deal with the green holds and spiders today.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jul 3, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

I think only if you are 5'2". Nancy L. gets up in there. You should be able to just lean across, grab the edges, hang low and swing your feet over and get a heal hook.

By Jake D.
From: Northeast
Jun 17, 2012

getting to the 2nd bolt is hard. i did it on TR but kept falling on lead. haven't gone back to it to try again. i'm 5'7

By twellman
Sep 9, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

This route is fun fun fun. The initial swinging boulder problem is very unique climbing!

I am taller (6') and obviously that makes grabbing the first holds easier, but getting your feet up and under you is easier for shorties! I thought 11a was a fair grade, it is a bouldery opening sequence.

By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Sep 19, 2012

If you want to climb this, be prepared for many spider webs.

By MLevine
From: Nashua, NH
Mar 14, 2013

I take a good peek up at this every time I climb its neighbor to the left. Looks formidable but I want to get on it soon. Really cool looking climb.

By Lundy Bancroft
Jul 28, 2013

Don't be afraid to try this route. The swing out is unusual but feels fine once you try it if you get the right holds before lifting your feet off the ledge. Then it's only about three hard moves up from there to a good hold, foot placements, and a rest, and then easier traveling follows.

By Harrison Harb
From: Portland, Or
Sep 6, 2013

vast majority of spider webs are in the dihedral at the top which can be completely avoided

By Eric Leclerc
Jan 23, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

I hope that the new guidebook will give this climb at least 2 stars.
When I climbed this route two years ago, I was having so much fun climbing it.
Too many climbers at Rumney snob second and third pitch routes but some of those routes are so cool and you never wait in line when you want to climb it.