Another great Sean Jones Route with several excellent pitches.
P1 (9) Climb the left facing corner, a bit loose at the top, to a bolted belay.
You can also start with Hummock world 5.7 on the left or Rough Around the Edges to the right. Rough Around the Edges climbs the arete just right of the Flying in the Mountains corner (9). Or best start is on the face just down and right (10b) past a pin and 3 bolts into a thin crack on the arete.
P2 (10a/b) Follow the obvious finger crack up to a 2 bolt anchor. A very nice pitch!
P3 (11a) Follow bolts up to, then over, the roof. Continue with technical climbing up the corner, then out right over the arete, then up to a 2 bolt belay.
P4 (11a) Follow the obvious crack up to a 2 bolt belay.
P5 (10b) Climb up and left then back right, passing a bolt or two, into the crack and follow it to a 2 bolt belay. (A bit heady).
P6 (10c) Follow several bolts right and up on great edges to the top and another 2 bolt anchor. Another very nice pitch!
Can rap the route with 2 ropes or rap homeworld with one.
40' left of Homeworld
Singles to # 3 Camalot w/extra small finger and finger size peices.
FA: Sean Jones, Jake Jones [or Robbie Borchard 2/1005?], 9/2004
By J. Albers From: Colorado Nov 5, 2012 rating: 5.11a6c22VII+22E3 5c
Amazing and varied route; crack, face, slab...a little bit of everything. I would disagree with Paul's comment about this being "soft" for the grade. I think there are two 5.11- sections on pitch 3 (the initial roof and the moves up and left after exiting the corner at the top of the pitch); the moves above the first bolt to gain the crack on the 4th pitch are probably 5.11a as well. Otherwise this route is mostly 5.10a/b climbing.
Climbed the first 3 pitches then bailed bc my partner couldn't follow the 3rd. Anyway, the 3rd pitch is really good sport climbing, requiring some thought.
Pitch 1 was hard to locate and I ended up just climbing this nasty groove with hummocks that was no harder than 5.6. I think the first pitch is indeed a LEFT facing corner, with a bolted arete on its right side. not sure why the description says right facing, it definitely faces LEFT.
Pitch 2 is ok, not the type of sllitter you find in the Valley, but a fun crack nonetheless.
Def recommend this sweet route.
By J. Albers From: Colorado Mar 23, 2013 rating: 5.11a6c22VII+22E3 5c
Robert is correct, the first pitch is indeed a left facing corner.
This is a super fun route, a really good way to beat the crowds that are on some of the bigger name routes. I thought the roof on p3 was a distinct crux, I'd call that 11 or 11- and maybe all the other hard bits 10 or 10+. My partner didn't think it was such a stand-out crux (and he led it).
We brought singles to 3" with extras in the yellow/orange metolius region. We never placed the #3 camalot, so I would definitely leave that behind. I placed the #2 once on p4, but it was in a pretty easy section and it would have been fine running it out a bit there. I'd say bring a single rack up to red camalot with extras in the finger sizes. The route is really well protected, and you even get bolts off of the belays on some pitches to protect against factor twos before you get established in a crack. Thanks, FA-ists!
It's not fancy, but the topo on this site worked great.
Don't overshoot the p1 anchor by continuing up 4th class dirt ramp to visible bolts on right.
I placed a smallish cam off the deck on the crux 3rd pitch, but it's otherwise very well bolted, no more pro needed.
p5 mostly only takes tiny cams and small nuts. Place gear where you can get it--it's not plentiful, and it's always small. A few bomber sideways placements for BD #4-5ish nuts. Offset nuts and cams would probably help. (Not particularly difficult climbing tho...)
We got down with one "short" 70m rope and some shenanigans, including a 20-foot easy 5th class downclimb to a big ledge about 200' off the ground. Rapped to the ground on a dirty fixed line from there. Didn't see a better option, but didn't look too hard for one either. Our rap route hopped around a bit but mostly followed the fall line down from the topout, to the right of the route.
Fun route, was dry after one mostly cloudy day after a three day snow/rain storm. Although there isn't a lot of approach info, it's pretty easy to find on the left side of the crag. Probably don't need a #2 camalot size, doubles in fingers blue to red alien nice to have and offset stoppers. Also, at least 12 draws mandatory as the last pitch is all bolts and super fun. Great springtime route!