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Shanty Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bidonville T 
Breadline S 
Climber's Yodel S 
Corktown T 
Flying Friends T,TR 
Gripe of Wrath S 
Gunky Route T 
Life and Debt T,TR 
Little Gem Diner T,TR 
Mean Low Blues T 
Pug Love T 
Railroad Dickie S 
River View TR 
Rocinha T,TR 
Shantytown T 
Soup Kitchen S 
Soweto T 
Swampoodle S 
Vernal Imperatives T,TR 

Flying Friends 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: May 1988, Stuart Williams, Eric Dahn, Jim Vermeulen
Page Views: 401
Submitted By: Kevin Heckeler on Aug 30, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Paul Deagle - Flying Friends 5.7

Description 

Climb a crack onto the slab, then left to a birch. Take the upper crack and another diagonal crack up and right to the arete. Gain another crack to traverse right (crux) and to the top.


Location 

Start 15 feet downhill from Bo Peep and River View, or 20 feet uphill/left from Circuitous Shit.


Protection 

Gear needed for anchor.



Comments on Flying Friends Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Jul 20, 2011

Stiff lead. Three of us climbing agreed it's maybe 5.8

By Paul Deagle
From: Geneseo, NY
Aug 6, 2012

Climbed it this weekend. The traverse is stiff but I think that is only because of the nonexistence feet. I found a little chip out to the right which helps. 5.7 or maybe + would be my guess. The slab is super easy so probably about right.

By Benjaminadk
From: Lake George, NY
Aug 8, 2012
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

tend to agree with heckeler. the first time doing the crux it feels pretty eightish.

By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Aug 22, 2012

Sadly the jams at the bottom are painful and the slab breaks up the climb in an uninteresting way, but for the bit of good climbing it offers the route is worth doing. At the time it was one of my first 5.7 leads and felt pretty stiff for the grade. Might revisit it to see what I think now.