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Flying Flatiron

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East Face Complete T 
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Flying Flatiron  


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jeff St. Pierre on Jun 24, 2002
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up P2-3, stay right of overhangs & slots.

Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Well... it's definitely a big slab like the other Flatirons, but perhaps a bit more tree spotted. Typical Flatiron rock, pretty good friction most places but, some spots seemed a little more slick. That was partially due to more lichen, as it is remote and less climbed, and there also is some different seams of rock in places. There is a little more oportunity to place good old nuts in this rock, however we climbed it with just tri-cams and cams, more than we needed too. Climbing is 5.4 - 5.5 most of the way, don't weigh yourself down with a huge rack. 5-6 small nuts, 4-5 Tri-cams, and 3-4 regular cams up to #2.5 Camalot will be more than sufficient. The two route descriptions in Rossiter's book put the climb at 5.6-5.7. I think you would have to go out of your way to find 5.7 climbing. There are definitely several unexplored or just unwritten routes on this Rock. Summiting the arch is not that difficult, but you decide which pillar! I'll just say that the East pillar has a little more lichen on it than the west (and some of my blood). The best thing about the route is the remoteness. There were no other climbers and we got to see an impressive hawk fairly close as it swooped and hovered looking for prey. The rappell off the west pillar is doable on one 60 meter. Be careful of some large loose rocks near the end of the rappel. Carefully descend the talus slope for a few hundred feet and head in to grab a pint of Colorado Kind. It took us about an hour and twenty from the base of the rappel back to the car.

--- Snip ---P.S. to the editors - your old TA Sean Sherrard will add the specifics of the route we did once the rock gets put up! Feel free to edit if I was too verbose!

Getting There 

You can leave from either NCAR or Shanahan Ridge trailheads. We left from Shanahan Ridge, caught the South Fork Shanahan trail until it met the Mesa trail. Head south on Mesa for maybe 500 to 600 yards. There's an open meadow that you can look across and see the Devils Thumb and the Flying Flatiron in front of it... we could see a spot of light at the top of the flying flatiron, but couldn't quite tell if it was the "arch" or not. Since there's no definitive trail according to Rossiter's book, we just made a bee line for what we could distinguish as the base. We had to cross some loose large talus, and one poison ivy infested gully, but it wasn't that bad. Don't wear sandels or shorts and you should be fine. We actually hit the base of what we think was The Apostle and soloed up over the top and walked off the north side... swung around to the left and dropped down to the base of the Flying Flatiron. It took us about an hour and a half to get there, but we stopped to consult maps and the guide book a couple times. It should be doable in an hour if you area a decent hiker. It may sound vague, but the route is more apparent once you get there and look at it. One other note, we turned off the Mesa Trail before we hit the Big Blue Stem Trail.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.9 miles from here

5 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',1],['5.11',1],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Flying Flatiron:
East Face Complete   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 6 pitches, 930'   
Browse More Classics in Flying Flatiron

Featured Route For Flying Flatiron
Paul pulling out the gear on toprope on his route The Inside Passage (5.13a R).

The Inside Passage 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b CO : Flatirons : ... : Flying Flatiron
This is the largest overhang in Boulder and the coolest thing I've ever done - which is saying absolutely nothing. The route climbs the 45 to 50 degree ceiling of a cave and exits through a natural arch. There is a crux right off off the ground (5.11) and another crux halfway (5.11c). There is a rest at 1/4 distance (lay on your hip on a flake), and a luxurious bivvy site at 2/3 distance atop Pigeon Prow, followed by a 5.11 R/X finish out a chossy A-frame. Route was lead in July of 2008 as a hea...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Flying Flatiron Slideshow Add Photo
Flying Flatiron South Face.
BETA PHOTO: Flying Flatiron South Face.
From left to right... The Tower of The Moon (small, shaded), the Jamcrack Spire, the Maiden, the Fatiron, The Devil's Thumb, the Flying Flatiron, and the Devil's Wings as viewed from the South-East on the Old Mesa Trail.
From left to right... The Tower of The Moon (small...
FF's 5.6 start of East Face route, above 3' overhang, right of trees, left of 30' overhang.
BETA PHOTO: FF's 5.6 start of East Face route, above 3' overha...
The tree filled East Face of the Flying Flatiron from below.
BETA PHOTO: The tree filled East Face of the Flying Flatiron f...
Looking down FF's P1.
BETA PHOTO: Looking down FF's P1.
Tracy at the rap anchor. This rock arch is pretty funky, in that it is just a bunch of blocks leaning on each other. The next photo shows the arch better.
Tracy at the rap anchor. This rock arch is pretty ...
Looking down P2.
BETA PHOTO: Looking down P2.
FF's 5.6 East Face start above 3' overhang.
BETA PHOTO: FF's 5.6 East Face start above 3' overhang.
Flying Flatiron from the Pyramid.
Flying Flatiron from the Pyramid.

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