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Flying Dutchman 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
Page Views: 419
Submitted By: April Milan on Jul 22, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


Left facing dihedral with crux near the bottom. Straightforward climbing with finger locks and stemming. Small roof/bulge near top.


Starts above Tunnel 2 at the dihedral above the oak tree on the ledge. Rap off of Metolius anchors. Currently no slings or rap rings.


Pro to 1.5". A few pitons at the bottom of the dihedral.

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By the professor
Sep 21, 2013

There used to be three fixed pins protecting the bottom. They were short LAs that you would not want to fall on. Still, this a quality route and the 5.10b rating is accurate (not a sandbag).
By Steve Wolford
Nov 30, 2013

The pins are still there, but I would back them up with gear when possible. The first pitch of this route is super quality and protects well. The second pitch is hard!
By Chris Winter
From: Portland, OR
Sep 20, 2015

There is a new bolt that protects the lower crux. Great route! It should see more traffic.
By George Zack
From: Portland, OR
Oct 10, 2015

A pretty straightforward and secure stemming problem for me, although my taller partner had a harder time. Hand work is interesting, as the crack is discontinuous and irregular (not much pure jamming). Protecting it was the trickiest part: You get bomber nut placements at reasonable intervals, but they require an eye and a little skill to place. Most cams that I tried to place between the nuts were marginal at best. Recommended rack: Set of nuts (doubles up to finger sizes), the larger offset nuts are handy too, and cams .2-.5 + an optional 2. Maybe double up on the .2 if you wanna build a nest at the crux.

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