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The Frigate
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bowspirit T,TR 
Can Can T 
Code of the Sea TR 
Flying Dutchman T,TR 
Frigate "walk off" T 
Galleass T,TR 
Jib, The T,TR 
Pooper, The T 
Stern, The T 
Unnamed route 20 T,TR 
When Life Gives You Lemons...SQUEEZE THEM TO DEATH! T,TR 
Yasik's Project T,TR 

Flying Dutchman 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 217
Submitted By: Doug Hemken on Sep 20, 2010

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Aaron tries to sneak past the roof

Description 

Delicate and burly at the same time. The crux is exactly where you think it will be, the face above has good, sharp horizontals, and then there is a final throw to the top.

I've seen two different strategies used successfully: ease up the flare, and power layback.


Location 

At the East end of the Frigate, facing the Lake, a flared slot through an overhang leads to a slabby face.


Protection 

Good gear through the crux, then nothing on the face above (5.8-5.6). Is there gear in the last ledge before the final crux?

For setting a TR, you can either solo up the chimney (4th class from the South), or jump down across the gaps from the Frigate walk-up. Great gear under the block and one big cam across the chimney makes a strong, easy, stable anchor.



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Rob gets established on the face.
Rob gets established on the face.
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By Tradoholic
Oct 7, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R

Not too fun. Squeeze chimney tactics work best in the crux. There is gear in the final horizontal but a fall from the final throw to the top would be ugly. I decided to pass on the lead.

Per Sven this ends on the "southeast" corner or in layman's terms, the "left" corner of the formation.