Delicate and burly at the same time. The crux is exactly where you think it will be, the face above has good, sharp horizontals, and then there is a final throw to the top.
I've seen two different strategies used successfully: ease up the flare, and power layback.
At the East end of the Frigate, facing the Lake, a flared slot through an overhang leads to a slabby face.
Good gear through the crux, then nothing on the face above (5.8-5.6). Is there gear in the last ledge before the final crux?
For setting a TR, you can either solo up the chimney (4th class from the South), or jump down across the gaps from the Frigate walk-up. Great gear under the block and one big cam across the chimney makes a strong, easy, stable anchor.
Rob gets established on the face.
|Comments on Flying Dutchman
Oct 7, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b R
Not too fun. Squeeze chimney tactics work best in the crux. There is gear in the final horizontal but a fall from the final throw to the top would be ugly. I decided to pass on the lead.
Per Sven this ends on the "southeast" corner or in layman's terms, the "left" corner of the formation.