The beautiful, thin, left angling, Mexican Crack-like fissure disecting the middle of the Sail. I've never led this...but I aspire to! The thin crack traverse is 10+, then some 5.8 R climbing above on some suspect flakes. If you're not a hardman, or at least, not a brave one, you can toprope this. Take some Loooong slings for blocks/horns at the top. Can barely rap off this with a 60M rope once you''ve slung the horns. Some anchor bolts on the face just below the top would sure be a nice addition. I can't believe Nathan hasn't already added these routes.....cmon, ya slacker!
Mostly small nuts and cams
Pretty cool finger crack
Steve toproping the Dutchman.
Enjoying the beautiful finger crack.
Nov 19, 2009
Really great route. If this was an easier approach there would be people lining up to climb it.
Although most of the gear is on the small side, a #3 or #4 camalot is helpful for the wide crack near the bottom before moving into the main crack.
|By Michael Buchanan|
Sep 2, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Some history (From the original Wasatch Granite Guidebook by Dave Smith, Waqstach Rock Climbs by Smoot and Ellison and the Ruckman Guide):
First ascent by Jack Roberts (solo[!!!!!]). This route was rated 5.9 back in the day, up graded to 5.10 by Smoot and Ellision, then to 10c w/ 5.8 runout climbing above. I thin that we are standing on the shoulders of the old school giants wondering where to go next! Is this route 10c? I dont know. The finger locks are just as good as other finger locks around (Crack in the woods, the coffin) and the pro in the crack is great. The 5.8r is definitely in your face. The climbing is classic LCC face (reminiscent of the Egg or the Viewing on the coffin) but super ricey rock. I pulled off a small hold and almost blew it! I wouldn't call it 10c though. The crack is awesome, and the position on the Sail is unbelievable. Cant believe the FA was solo in 1976 and rated 5.9! Hardmen back in the day.
Agree with ZachB, if this route was on Crescent, the Gate, Pentapitch, Bong Eater or any crag with a chill approach it would clean up and people would be talking about it like they talk about Mexi Crack, the coffin or any other 3 star route.
|By Tim Wolfe|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 16, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
One of the best routes in the canyon. Stunning crack with heady runnout face at the top. Well worth the walk over and over again.
|By Spencer Weiler|
From: SLC, UT
Jul 9, 2011
Wow. I'll say it again. Wow. My inner Dutchman has been awakened. I absolutely loved this route. The approach is long, but this climb is stellar. If you've done the coffin, sasquatch, and mexican clean, this is your next LCC finger crack victim. Super fun. It is quite pumpy. No great rests and finding feet is tricky, but the crack is really clean and the locks are key-worthy. Great pro for the first 3/4. Bring doubles in .3 to .75 and maybe one #1 and #3 camalot. The runout face above the crack is, well, runout. I wouldn't call it hard but I found myself highstepping and such. You get a decent rest on a small bushel of sorts before embarking runoutly upwards on flexy flakes and roundy sharp rock. I would estimate the top 1/4 of this route to be devoid of pro, which is about 20 feet or so. It does get easier towards the top though. Climb Wilson-Love or Big Bong first to scope it out if it worries you. Superb.
|By Eric Chabot|
From: Thetford Ctr, VT
May 16, 2014
Such an awesome route! Buttery finger locks, and a fun layback section.
Flakes at the top are definitely suspect. You can find slopey face holds left of the looseness and avoid pulling on them, but even if they ripped off it wouldn't be too too bad, the loosest rock is right at the beginning of the runout.