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Tufa City
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Flying Cocksman 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Mike Fitzgerald/Ben Boyd
Page Views: 1,165
Submitted By: BenClimbing on Jan 19, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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toast heel hooking the roof

Portions of the approach and cliffs of this area are on private land. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Fun moves through crazy features lead to a cruxy dihedral just before a 6 foot roof. After the roof, one more big crank is rewarded with easier climbing and nice exposure.

Location 

10 feet right of Spicy Crispy.

Protection 

6 bolts (all orange hangers) to metolius rap hangers. SPECIAL PRECAUTION: when cleaning the route, do not swing out from below the third bolt or you may have a close encounter with a large cactus! The first bolt can be cleaned from the ledge. (edit) It would appear that lightning has removed the large saguaro so this is not an issue any more.


Photos of Flying Cocksman Slideshow Add Photo
Luke demonstrates his virility on "Flying Coc...
Luke demonstrates his virility on "Flying Coc...

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By BenClimbing
Jan 19, 2010

Also, a longer sling is advisable for the 4th bolt to reduce rope drag as the roof is rather large.
By Fitz
From: Carbondale, CO
Dec 20, 2010

Great route with unique and exciting gymnastic movement!