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Flying Circus 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dick Mitten, Dave Lane 1977
Season: Mostly Summer
Page Views: 4,775
Submitted By: Michael John Gray on Jul 30, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (95)
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Peter Croft on Flying Circus. We just happened to...
Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a sustained fingercrack and a great climb. Its often toproped but I found it to be a fine lead. Its rock is rather polished from TR traffic.


Location 

Its on the main wall of neat and cool left of the overhang and right of the dihedral the crack looks awesome splitting the face.


Protection 

Nuts, smaller cams.. you'll figure it out.



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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 11, 2013
By Peter Spindloe
From: North Vancouver, BC
Oct 23, 2006

Guidebooks and posts in various locations all reference the polish this climb has received from top rope traffic. I led it this Saturday; never having done it before I can't compare to some earlier state, but it really didn't seem polished, or at least it didn't seem harder than the grade would suggest. A very enjoyable and well protected climb.

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Jan 20, 2007

This one has been loved smooth from all the ascents. Good polished fun.

By Jeremy
From: Boulder, CO
May 26, 2008

I thought this route was better than neat & cool.

By Wanderinfree
From: Boulder, CO
May 26, 2008

This route didn't seem polished at all to me. Awesome finger locks. Great route!

By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Havertown, PA
Jul 20, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Led it this past Friday, and it was a great and varied route, with tremendous texture on either side of the crack. Wish it could've gone on for another pitch.

By Michael John Gray
From: Queensbury, NY
Jul 26, 2008

Croft is my rolemodel!

Thanks for the cool pic!

By Matt Desenberg
From: Wells, Me
Apr 21, 2009

Great climb, felt more 5.10 than some of the other stuff in the Bluffs.

By Laurel Fan
Jun 27, 2011

A little polish might not be that bad, sharp crystal finger locks kind of hurt...

By Tobias Tillemans
From: seattle, WA
Jul 30, 2011

I think the polish is on the feet. Particularly near the crux there are some rather shiny ones.

By Matt Hoffmann
From: Squamish
Apr 23, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Locker fingers. A bit polished from all the traffic but, the gear is solid so go for it!

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 4, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

One of the best climbs in the Smoke Bluffs area. Not that polished - still good friction, and great fingerlocks and gear. A must-do.

By Bryan Hall
From: Bend, Oregon
Aug 10, 2012

I slipped at the crux stance while resting and blew the onsight... But! I wouldn't say it's polished, just not great happy feet. The Zip is much better at 10a tho.

By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Aug 11, 2013
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Locker fingers, bomber gear, sustained width. Get some.