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Flying Buttress 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 275'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: J Menlove Edwards, 1931
Page Views: 481
Submitted By: Rob Lilley on Aug 1, 2012

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The view from the belay ledge at the end of pitch ...

Description 

An essential classic. Steep and exposed, but furnished with the regular occurrence of positive holds.

Pitch 1 (55ft) Head up the middle of the buttress.

Pitch 2 (60ft) Continue up to the larger pinnacles.

Pitch 3 (65ft) Drop down in the gap and climb the steep wall on the left.

Pitch 4 (50ft) Follow the slab rightwards to a ledge.

Pitch 5 (50ft) The awkward chimney on the right is thankfully short lived.

Location 

Start just right of the prominent quartz exposure at the foot of the castellated ridge, which forms the right edge of the cliff.

Descent: Walk round to the back of the cliff and follow the climber's left hand side back down via an easy (if a little loose) trail.

Protection 

Standard set of nuts and a couple of mid size cams for the glorious pockets available protect the route perfectly.


Photos of Flying Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Pitch 1 with the pinnacles of pitch 2 just visible...
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1 with the pinnacles of pitch 2 just visible...

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By Rob Lilley
From: Greensboro, NC
Aug 1, 2012

Easily the best 5.5 in the country in my opinion, it's steep and exposed, the positions are amazing and the juggy pockets are the stuff of dreams.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Aug 29, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Thanks for posting Rob.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Oct 27, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Just think, with a 70m rope you could almost do it one pitch....have I made my point? Subscribe to history, embrace it...you can't do it any better than Menlove Edwards, no matter how hard you try.