Flying Buttress  5.5

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Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 275 feet Consensus:  5.5 [details] FA:  J Menlove Edwards, 1931 Submitted By:  Rob Lilley on Aug 1, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1 with the pinnacles of pitch 2 just visible...

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Description 

An essential classic. Steep and exposed, but furnished with the regular occurrence of positive holds.

Pitch 1 (55ft) Head up the middle of the buttress.

Pitch 2 (60ft) Continue up to the larger pinnacles.

Pitch 3 (65ft) Drop down in the gap and climb the steep wall on the left.

Pitch 4 (50ft) Follow the slab rightwards to a ledge.

Pitch 5 (50ft) The awkward chimney on the right is thankfully short lived.

Location 

Start just right of the prominent quartz exposure at the foot of the castellated ridge, which forms the right edge of the cliff.

Descent: Walk round to the back of the cliff and follow the climber's left hand side back down via an easy (if a little loose) trail.

Protection 

Standard set of nuts and a couple of mid size cams for the glorious pockets available protect the route perfectly.

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The view from the belay ledge at the end of pitch ...