Flying & Drinking and Drinking & Driving 5.10a PG13
| 2,004 page views
Good page?   |
| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | Don Mellor 1985 |
| Submitted By: | E thatcher on Jun 4, 2010 |
| |
Converse low on the route
Add Photo  Printer View
Description FDDD starts by climbing up the initial corner of Labatt-Ami, before cutting back left on good holds, until you are just shy of the arete. Small gear can be found at either end of the traverse and should be utilized while still being as extended as possible.
From the end of the traverse, make a couple hard, thin moves to a jug rest at the base of a thin crack. Protect in the crack with small nuts and face climb up to the crux, getting into a small left facing corner.
Once you've gained the corner follow the 5.7 jug haul to the top.
The gear on the 5.10 sections of this climb is small and decently spaced. I would not hesitate to call it PG 13. The 5.7 jug haul is unprotected for the last 15-20 feet and certainly R. The holds are, however, the definition of juggy.
There is a direct version that pulls a roof to the right of the mainline. It goes at 5.10d R, but can be easily TR'd off of the same anchors.
Location The extreme right side of the Upper Beer walls. The face between Frosted Mug and Labatt-Ami
Protection As much small gear as you have. I sunk a set of c3's and two black aliens and it was by no means laced up. Fixed anchors at the top, shared with Frosted Mug and Labatt-Ami
Converse entering the 5.7 finish.
|
Alexa on FDDD. Photo by Adam Bofinger
|
jaysen henderson at the base of the finger crack s...
|
View looking up from the base, Labat-Ami on the ri...
| | |
| Comments on Flying & Drinking and Drinking & Driving |
|
By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Jun 4, 2010
| An awesome Picture of Guide Book author Jim Lawyer on this classic route:www.adirondackrock.com/gallery9.htm
If you see this, thanks for the beta at the base Jim, you're a walking guidebook + beta machine |
By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
Oct 1, 2010
| One of the best .10a pitches in the Chapel Pond area. |
By Greg Kuchyt
May 12, 2011
rating: 5.10a
| In my opinion, I don't know that I'd call this PG per se. It's one of those G/PG depending on how you feel about these things. It's not G in the sense that you can get gear at any time you want it, but it's not PG in the sense that you're moving more than body lengthish distances above pieces. I think the distance between the pieces at the hardest points is reasonable to be called G. I can understand the opinion of PG though. |
By Jaysen Henderson
Sep 19, 2011
| TR'd this yesterday and LOVED it, the delicate climbing wandering all over the face is great, plus, the amazing jug haul at the end. I think im going to plan on leading this one if i can get enough small gear together to make it safe. |
By Jaysen Henderson
May 7, 2012
| lead this yesterday, super safe if you bring doubles in the red and green c3 size and a small set of rp's. |
|
6 more...
RSS Feed
Slideshow
