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West Ridge - part A - Verschneidung to base
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A Moveable Flake 
Allosaur 
Auntie Perspirant 
Blind Mouse 
Blues Power 
Clean Freak 
Crow's Landing 
Earnest Stemmingway 
Ernest Extended Way 
Exterminator, The 
Farmer's Wife, The 
First Unknown 
Flyback 
Foaming Cleanser 
Initial Hangover 
Initial Route 
Jam Con 
Kickin' Chicken 
Leg of Ilg 
Mineral Maze 
Morning Thunder 
Odarodle 
Office Girls Walk The Plank 
Party Pooper 
Pork Chop 
Quo Vadis 
Ranger Danger 
Roadside Attraction 
Runsholl Scrunch 
Shot and Chaser 
Sleepytime 
Something Blue 
Stepping Stones 
Super Scooper 
Territorial Integrity 
Thunderbolts From Hell 
Thunderworld 
Up the Downclimb 
Verschneidung 
Water Line 
Wild Turkey 
Wingshot 
Wishbone 

Flyback 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a R

   
Type: Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Harrison, Brooks, Reynolds, 1986
Season: Gets all day sun
Page Views: 169
Submitted By: Tony B on Apr 15, 2007
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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

An interesting climb that would get more stars if it followed a straight line. But it doesn't, it wanders. Still, it is a fairly intuitive line and can be nicely done as a single pitch. Start just right of the base of "Morning Thunder" and finish up on the East Slabs of the West Ridge and belay there.
To retreat, go up and West on the slabs and down to the raps as for the Amphitheatre routes.


Location 

This route starts in the shallow corner, two corners right of "Morning Thunder." Start up the right-facing corner and flake and top out onto a slab after 10 meters, unprotected. Put in gear as you turn onto the slab and go to the right edge of the slab to a good crack, then either belay or keep going (keep going). You can place a high piece on the traverse to the corner with a long sling and then walk your gear in the corner up for a ways, then sling it and you'll still have minimal drag. When you hit a rotten band, look back to get some gear then go up and left a few moves and then up a funky undercling to another good crack and some finger locks that you can't see until you are there. Don't keep going left.... Place gear again and pull the crux you've already started out on (5.9 again) and get up into a left-facing corner to another ledge. Protect again as you turn onto the ledge, go right to a good handcrack, then up to the top, onto the East Slabs of the West Ridge.


Protection 

A standard rack from small to 3" first and second knuckle cams were what I needed most, but had left them at the belay. The first pitch is unprotected and is 5.9. Don't fall. The second pitch is runout and has some loose rock in a spot or two that can be easily avoided.
The belay up top is a little hard to find, but I got a large cam and 3 reasonable stoppers after some searching and climbing further up the top-out slab.
To run this into a single pitch, take plenty of runners and make some elective runouts.



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