|159 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 2 pitches, 180 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.9+ [details]|
|FA: ||Harrison, Brooks, Reynolds, 1986|
|Season: ||Gets all day sun|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Apr 15, 2007|
An interesting climb that would get more stars if it followed a straight line. But it doesn't, it wanders. Still, it is a fairly intuitive line and can be nicely done as a single pitch. Start just right of the base of "Morning Thunder" and finish up on the East Slabs of the West Ridge and belay there.
To retreat, go up and West on the slabs and down to the raps as for the Amphitheatre routes.
This route starts in the shallow corner, two corners right of "Morning Thunder." Start up the right-facing corner and flake and top out onto a slab after 10 meters, unprotected. Put in gear as you turn onto the slab and go to the right edge of the slab to a good crack, then either belay or keep going (keep going). You can place a high piece on the traverse to the corner with a long sling and then walk your gear in the corner up for a ways, then sling it and you'll still have minimal drag. When you hit a rotten band, look back to get some gear then go up and left a few moves and then up a funky undercling to another good crack and some finger locks that you can't see until you are there. Don't keep going left.... Place gear again and pull the crux you've already started out on (5.9 again) and get up into a left-facing corner to another ledge. Protect again as you turn onto the ledge, go right to a good handcrack, then up to the top, onto the East Slabs of the West Ridge.
A standard rack from small to 3" first and second knuckle cams were what I needed most, but had left them at the belay. The first pitch is unprotected and is 5.9. Don't fall. The second pitch is runout and has some loose rock in a spot or two that can be easily avoided.
The belay up top is a little hard to find, but I got a large cam and 3 reasonable stoppers after some searching and climbing further up the top-out slab.
To run this into a single pitch, take plenty of runners and make some elective runouts.